APLB Retinol Vitamin C Vitamin E Ampoule Serum Versus Dermaction Plus by Watsons Pro Acne Series Completed Recover Night Essence
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This acne essence is formulated around Zinc PCA and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract 28.1%
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Annua Extract
MaskingOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-10
CleansingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingInulin
Skin ConditioningCellulose
AbsorbentGlucose
HumectantFructose
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDextrin
AbsorbentWater, Centella Asiatica Extract 28.1%, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Retinol, Glycine Soja Oil, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Squalane, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Trideceth-10, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Cellulose, Glucose, Fructose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Dextrin
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveTetrasodium EDTA
Tromethamine
BufferingZinc PCA
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPEG-20 Soy Sterol
EmulsifyingCocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveSalicylic Acid
MaskingMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningBoswellia Serrata Extract
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeOligopeptide-10
AntimicrobialAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantBenzalkonium Chloride
AntimicrobialCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCera Alba
EmollientFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientIsomerized Safflower Acid
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPalmitic Acid
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningZinc Sulfate
AntimicrobialWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, C14-22 Alcohols, Sorbitan Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Glycine Soja Sterols, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Kaolin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Zinc PCA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-20 Soy Sterol, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Polysorbate 60, Silica, Salicylic Acid, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Benzoate, Copper Gluconate, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Oligopeptide-10, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Benzalkonium Chloride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cera Alba, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Isomerized Safflower Acid, Maltodextrin, Palmitic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Zinc Sulfate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water