DHC One Step Airy Cream

DHC One Step Airy Cream

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Overview

What it is

General moisturizer with 83 ingredients that contains AHA, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, retinoid, Vitamin C and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

DHC is from Japan. This product is used in 2 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

41
14
28

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glycereth-26

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Jojoba Esters

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Isostearyl Isostearate

Emollient
4 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Cetyl Palmitate

Emollient
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol Icon

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Glycerides

Emulsifying

Sorbitan Stearate

Emulsifying
0 / 1 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Polysorbate 80

Emulsifying
0 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon Icon

Saccharide Isomerate

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate

Cleansing

Sodium Hydroxide

Buffering

Disodium EDTA

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Behenyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Emulsifying

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Sodium PCA

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Sodium Lactate

Buffering

Arginine

Masking
Good for Scar Healing IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Silk

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Aspartic Acid

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Humectant
Good for Dark Spots Icon

PCA

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Lactobacillus/Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Ferment Filtrate

Bleaching

Citrus Depressa Peel Extract

Humectant

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Rubus Ellipticus Root Extract

Humectant

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate

Skin Conditioning

Urea

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Emollient

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Alanine

Masking

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Masking
Fragrance IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Apium Graveolens Extract

Skin Conditioning

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Masking
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Astringent

Tussilago Farfara Flower/Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein

Skin Conditioning

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Morus Alba Root Extract

Bleaching

Ononis Spinosa Root Extract

Antiseborrhoeic

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract

Masking

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Cleansing

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Soluble Proteoglycan

Skin Conditioning

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract

Antiseborrhoeic

Valine

Masking

Isoleucine

Skin Conditioning

Proline

Skin Conditioning

Threonine

Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Thymus Serpyllum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Simmondsia Chinensis Leaf Extract

Humectant

Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Malic Acid

Buffering
AHA IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Retinyl Palmitate

Skin Conditioning
1-3 / 1-3 Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Skin Conditioning
2 / 0 Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Histidine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Phenylalanine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isostearyl Isostearate, Squalane, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Glycerides, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Dimethicone, Saccharide Isomerate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Niacinamide, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Ceramide NP, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Aspartic Acid, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, PCA, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Ferment Filtrate, Citrus Depressa Peel Extract, Tocopherol, Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract, Rubus Ellipticus Root Extract, Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate, Urea, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract, Alanine, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Apium Graveolens Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Tussilago Farfara Flower/Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Ononis Spinosa Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Proteoglycan, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Serine, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Malic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Phenoxyethanol

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Humectant

Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.

It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.

As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.

Learn more about Glycereth-26
Emollient, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.

This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.

Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.

It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.

Learn more about Jojoba Esters
Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Isostearyl Isostearate comes from Isostearyl Alcohol and Isostearic Acid. It is usually derived from vegetables, such as canola oil.

Isostearyl Isostearate is an emollient and helps soften skin. It can also help thicken a product.

This ingredient isn't fungal acne safe. It can be bad for oily skin.

Learn more about Isostearyl Isostearate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.

Because squalane boosts hydration in the skin, it also comes with plenty of benefits: it is an antioxidant and can help fight free radicals and skin damage. Squalane is also found to have a detoxifying effect when applied.

Squalane comes from squalene, which occurs naturally within the sebum of our skin. It is one of the oils our skin produces to keep itself hydrated. Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene and has a longer shelf life.

Research shows that squalane is non-irritating (even at 100% concentration).

In general, it's a fantastic ingredient. It does a great job at hydrating the skin, and it's suitable for those with sensitive skin.

The source of squalane may impact malassezia / fungal acne. This is because olive oil derived squalane can contain impurities such as fatty acids and plant waxes. Sugarcane derived squalane is recommended for anyone with malassezia concerns.

Is squalane vegan?

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Is squalane an oil?

Squalane is often called an oil, but it’s technically not; it’s a hydrocarbon, meaning it’s only made of carbon and hydrogen, unlike true oils which are triglycerides made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated, so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

While some people avoid oils thinking they cause breakouts, the right kind of oil (or oil-like ingredient like squalane) can actually help balance and hydrate your skin. It’s worth testing out simple oils or squalane to see what works best for your skin.

Learn more about Squalane
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Cetyl Palmitate is a wax-like substance.

It comes from palmitic acid and palmityl alcohol. Cetyl Palmitate may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne.

This ingredient is naturally found in the guava fruit and stony corals.

Learn more about Cetyl Palmitate
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Cetyl Alcohol

We don't have a description for Hydrogenated Rapeseed Glycerides yet.

Emulsifying

Sorbitan Stearate comes from sorbitol and stearic acid. Sorbitol is a type of sugar and stearic acid is a fatty acid.

It is used as an emulsifier and helps ingredients stay together by creating water-in-oil emulsions.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create a gel consistency.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Emulsifying

Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant and emulsifier. It is used to keep ingredients together, and prevent oils and waters from separating.

It is made from polyethoxylated sorbitan and oleic acid. This ingredient can be found in cosmetics, foods, and medicine. It is water-soluble.

Polysorbate 80 may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polysorbate 80
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone

Saccharide Isomerate comes from sugars found in corn. It is a skin hydrator.

The structure of this ingredient can be altered to be more similar to the carbohydrates found in our skin. This ability to mimic our skin gives it hydrating properties.

Specifically, saccharide Isomerate is a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the air to our skin.

Research shows Saccharide Isomerate to be an effective moisturizer.

Learn more about Saccharide Isomerate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Cleansing, Foaming

We don't have a description for Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate yet.

Buffering

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Learn more about Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Learn more about Behenyl Alcohol
Skin Conditioning

Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate isn't fungal acne safe.

Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum

This ingredient also goes by the name SSL. It is a non-toxic, biodegradable ingredient made from renewable sources.

SSL is typically used as a surfactant and emulsifier in skincare to stabilize water-based formulas and improve texture. It can be synthetic or animal-derived.

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP is a type of ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here:
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid. It is naturally occurring in our skin's natural moisturizing factors where it works to maintain hydration.

The PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural amino acid derivative.

This ingredient has skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, and humectant properties. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin moisturized.

Learn more about Sodium PCA
Buffering, Humectant

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Learn more about Sodium Lactate
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Arginine is an amino acid that is important for human development. Your body uses is it to produce hair keratin and skin collagen.

As a cosmetic ingredient, Arginine has antioxidant properties and can also help repair damaged skin. This ingredient is derived either synthetically or from animals.

Arginine isn't fungal acne safe when used in the presence of other lipids (fats, fatty acids, oils, esters, etc). Oils and fats occur naturally within the skin, so take caution when using Arginine if you're prone to fungal acne.

Learn more about Arginine
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

You can find hydrolyzed silk in both haircare and skincare products. According to a manufacturer, it can help improve skin and hair hydration.

This ingredient is created by adding acid or enzymes to 'hydrolyze' silk protein.

Due to the origins of this ingredient, it is not vegan. Silk is an animal product from silkworms.

Depending on the source, this ingredient can be considered cruelty-free. It is created from left-over cocoons of silkworms. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about where their hydrolyzed silk comes from.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Silk
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Aspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.

Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.

Prunus Mume extract comes from the Asian plum. This plum is AKA 'plum blossom'. Plum blossom has hydrating and antibacterial properties.

Plum Blossoms are rich in nutrients, including Vitamin A, Vitamin B, and Vitamin C.

A study from 2021 found this ingredient to inhibit melanin production. An animal study found plum blossom to help increase collagen production.

Learn more about Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
PCA
Humectant, Moisturising

PCA is derived from amino acids and is naturally found in our skin's barrier.

As a humectant, PCA helps draw and hold moisture to the skin. Studies show it is effective at helping the skin stay hydrated long-term.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic

We don't have a description for Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Ferment Filtrate yet.

We don't have a description for Citrus Depressa Peel Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol

We don't have a description for Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Rubus Ellipticus Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate yet.

Buffering, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Urea is also called carbamide and is the diamide of carbonic acid. In cosmetics, urea is used to hydrate the skin. It also provides exfoliation in higher concentrations.

As a humectant, urea helps draw moisture from the air and from deep within the skin. This helps hydrate your skin. Studies show urea is an effective moisturizer for dry skin conditions. 40% urea is typical in medications for treating eczema and other skin conditions.

Urea has the strongest exfoliation effect in concentrations higher than 10%. It is a keratolytic agent, meaning it breaks down the keratin protein in the top layer of skin. This helps remove dead skin cells and flaking skin.

In medicine, urea has been shown to help increase the potency of other ingredients, such as fungal treatments.

Humans and animals use urea to metabolize nitrogen-containing compounds. Urea is highly soluble in water. Once dissolved, it is neither acidic nor alkaline.

Learn more about Urea
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.

The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.

Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.

One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.

The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.

Learn more about Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Buffering, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is an amino acid that helps build proteins and moisturizes skin. It is already present in our skin as our bodies produce them naturally.

Glycine already plays a role in helping keep our skin moisturized as amino acids transport moisture throughout our skin.

As collagen is made up of glycine and other amino acids, it is believed glycine may help our skin produce more collagen.

Learn more about Glycine

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract is an extract of the leaves of the Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra L., Leguminosae

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract comes from the common Marigold plant. This ingredient is a skin conditioner.

Marigolds contain flavonoids. Flavonoids are a group of substances found naturally in plants. They possess antioxidant and inflammation properties.

This ingredient soothes skin inflammation by inhibiting inhibiting a part of the inflammation process.

Marigolds have been used in traditional medicine throughout Asia and Europe.

Learn more about Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Antioxidant, Humectant

Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract is an antioxidant.

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract is from a plant called the Marsh Mallow plant. This plant is indigenous to Europe, West Asia, and North Africa.

Marsh Mallow root is an emollient and antioxidant. It helps sooth and soften the skin. When applied to the skin, it blocks enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid.

The marshmallow we eat today is based on an ancient Egyptian dessert made from this plant (Marshmallows do not contain this plant anymore).

Learn more about Althaea Officinalis Root Extract

We don't have a description for Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Apium Graveolens Extract is derived from celery. It contains antioxidants such as Ferulic Acid and Caffeic Acid.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.

Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.

Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.

Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.

Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.

Learn more about Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Astringent, Emollient, Soothing

We don't have a description for Equisetum Arvense Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Tussilago Farfara Flower/Leaf Extract yet.

Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.

Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.

Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.

Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.

This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:

Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Collagen
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein yet.

We don't have a description for Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract yet.

Bleaching, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Morus Alba Root Extract yet.

Antiseborrhoeic, Soothing

We don't have a description for Ononis Spinosa Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract yet.

Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

Sage leaf extract is a culinary and medicinal herb with antibacterial, antioxidant, and soothing properties.

This ingredient is made up of 75-90% ursolic acid, a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Soluble Proteoglycan yet.

We don't have a description for Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Serine is an amino acid naturally found in our body. Our bodies use amino acids to create protein.

Amino-acids help give keep our skin hydrated. They play an important role in the skin barrier, which keeps the skin plump and firm.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid, meaning we don't need to obtain it from eating foods.

Learn more about Serine
Antiseborrhoeic, Refreshing, Tonic

We don't have a description for Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.

An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.

This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.

Learn more about Valine
Skin Conditioning

Isoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.

Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.

Skin Conditioning

Proline is an amino-acid. It helps moisturize the skin and plays an important role in creating proteins.

Our skin uses proline as one of the building blocks for producing collagen.

In medicine, proline is used as an osmoprotectant. This means it helps prevent oxidative degradation in other drugs.

Our bodies are able to produce proline naturally, but certain conditions may inhibit this production. In that case, proline can be obtained from eating egg whites, soy protein, dairy products, asparagus, mushrooms, and seaweed.

Learn more about Proline

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Thymus Serpyllum Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Simmondsia Chinensis Leaf Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Buffering, Masking

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C. This form makes up the largest amount of vitamin C found naturally in our skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, it also has plenty of benefits on your skin.

Vitamin C is best used for brightening skin. It improves dark spots, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation. This is because it blocks the process of skin darkening when exposed to UV.

Remember: Vitamin C should not replace sunscreen!

Your skin uses vitamin C to build collagen. Collagen is one key component in having a strong skin barrier and plump skin. Vitamin C also plays a role in regulating collagen, thus making it effective in improving wrinkles and fine lines.

Ascorbic acid shows potent antioxidant activity. As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. These antioxidants also protect skin against UV damage.

The best formulations include Vitamin E and/or ferulic acid. These two ingredients help stabilize and provide a boost in the benefits of ascorbic acid. This is because ascorbic acid becomes unstable when exposed to UV and air. In fact, you can tell your ascorbic acid has oxidized when it turns an orange-yellow color.

Ascorbic acid is generally compatible with other ingredients. However, using ascorbic acid with other active ingredients might cause irritation. Two ingredients: copper ions and benzoyl peroxide, will inactivate ascorbic acid completely.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Learn more about Ascorbic Acid
Buffering, Exfoliating

Malic Acid is an acid with both AHA and BHA properties, but is considered an AHA because its AHA properties are stronger.

Like other AHAs, it removes the top layer of old and dead skin to reveal the newer layer underneath. It also helps with improving fine lines, wrinkles, skin tone, skin texture, and acne blemishes.

Due to its exfoliating properties, you should wear SPF when using Malic Acid.

Fun fact: The word "Malic" comes from the word "Malum". In Latin, "Malum" means apple. This ingredient is often derived from unripe fruit.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Learn more about Malic Acid
Skin Conditioning

Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.

This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.

First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.

This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.

Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.

Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:

Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.

This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.

The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.

While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.

All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.

Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate

Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.

Learn more about Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning

Arachis Hypogaea Oil is from peanuts. It is an emollient and helps soften the skin.

It also has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.

One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:

Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.

Learn more about Histidine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.

This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.

Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.

Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.

Learn more about Phenylalanine
Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.

It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.

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Where it's from

DHC is a Japanese brand

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· Updated September 24, 2025 Added by jupitersoto