What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPEG-8
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPullulan
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingAlcohol
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantLaureth-3
EmulsifyingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingChitosan
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingKigelia Africana Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Soybean Extract
Skin ConditioningPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeDecyl Glucoside
CleansingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSilanetriol
Sorbic Acid
PreservativeAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Glycerin, PEG-8, Propanediol, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Polysilicone-11, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Lecithin, Adenosine, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Parfum, BHT, Laureth-3, Cellulose Gum, Chitosan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Soybean Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Behentrimonium Chloride, Decyl Glucoside, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Potassium Phosphate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexylene Glycol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Silanetriol, Sorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, BHA, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNylon-12
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantPolyacrylate-13
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Parfum
MaskingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSaponins
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCarnosine
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Retinol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPEG-75
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPapain
Skin ConditioningPearl Powder
Sodium Polyphosphate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nylon-12, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Mannitol, Trehalose, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Parfum, Glycine Soja Oil, Xanthan Gum, Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carnosine, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, CI 77891, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Retinol, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75, Phospholipids, Mica, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, BHT, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Papain, Pearl Powder, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Oil comes from the soybean. Glycine Soja is native to eastern Asia.
Soybean oil is an emollient. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids.
As an emollient, the fatty acids in soybean oil helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. It does so by creating a film on top that traps moisture in.
Soybean oil is also rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. Vitamin E is also anti-inflammatory and provides a soothing effect.
Studies show soy may help fade hyperpigmentation from UVB. It does so by disrupting the melanin process from UVB induced skin inflammation.
This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.
Soybeans are rich in proteins and are part of the legume family. Foods made with soybeans include tofu, soymilk, edamame, miso, and soy sauce.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum