What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNylon-12
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantPolyacrylate-13
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Parfum
MaskingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSaponins
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCarnosine
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Retinol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPEG-75
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPapain
Skin ConditioningPearl Powder
Sodium Polyphosphate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nylon-12, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Mannitol, Trehalose, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Parfum, Glycine Soja Oil, Xanthan Gum, Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carnosine, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, CI 77891, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Retinol, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75, Phospholipids, Mica, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, BHT, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Papain, Pearl Powder, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPolyglycerin-3
HumectantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientMannitol
HumectantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientParfum
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate/Acrylonitrile Copolymer
CI 77480
Cosmetic ColorantAureobasidium Pullulans Ferment
Skin ConditioningResveratrol
AntioxidantMagnesium Sulfate
Calcium Chloride
AstringentAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningManganese Sulfate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc Sulfate
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Polyglycerin-3, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-8, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Mannitol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Methyl Methacrylate/Acrylonitrile Copolymer, CI 77480, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Resveratrol, Magnesium Sulfate, Calcium Chloride, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Manganese Sulfate, Tocopherol, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Zinc Sulfate, Ascorbyl Glucoside
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Learn more about MannitolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer and cleaning agent. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, Sorbitan Isostearate prevents oils and water from separating.
Due to its isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolTromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water