What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingHordeum Vulgare Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentInulin
Skin ConditioningPiroctone Olamine
PreservativeGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Arginine
MaskingHistidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingPCA
HumectantAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAspartic Acid
MaskingSodium PCA
HumectantCoco-Glucoside
CleansingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSodium Lactate
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingParfum
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCitral
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingAcetyl Cedrene
Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingTetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes
MaskingPinene
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, C12-14 Pareth-12, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Ectoin, Caffeine, Yeast Extract, Maltodextrin, Inulin, Piroctone Olamine, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Arginine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Tocopherol, Aspartic Acid, Sodium PCA, Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Propanediol, Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Parfum, Alcohol Denat., Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Acetyl Cedrene, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, Pinene
Butylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeAlcohol
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAnthemis Nobilis Flower Water
MaskingMelissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water
Skin ConditioningInulin
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Extract
AntimicrobialPEG-Crosspolymer
Biotin
AntiseborrhoeicCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientVinegar
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPaeonia Suffruticosa Branch/Flower/Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingArtemisia Annua Extract
MaskingAzadirachta Indica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingMentha Arvensis Leaf Extract
MaskingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPolygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingAspartic Acid
MaskingDextrin
AbsorbentPolylysine
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingGanoderma Lucidum Extract
Skin ProtectingPCA
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingAlthaea Officinalis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingChamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhellinus Linteus Extract
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Histidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingAlchemilla Vulgaris Extract
AstringentLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingBenzyl PCA
HumectantButylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Myristyl Alcohol, Water, Steartrimonium Chloride, Alcohol, Parfum, Triethylhexanoin, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Maltodextrin, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Inulin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, PEG-Crosspolymer, Biotin, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, Yeast Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Vinegar, 1,2-Hexanediol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Branch/Flower/Leaf Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Arginine, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Aspartic Acid, Dextrin, Polylysine, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, PCA, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Serine, Valine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citral, Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl PCA
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.
Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalHistidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.
Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.
One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:
Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.
Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.
Learn more about HistidineInulin is a polysaccharide (carbohydrate) with prebiotic and antioxidant properties.
The majority of inulin is extracted from chicory, but can also be obtained from other plants such as garlic, onion, asparagus, and sugarcane.
Studies show inulin may help with controlling your skin's natural microbiota when applied topically.
The antioxidant potential of inulin varies depending on the source.
Learn more about InulinIsoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.
Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolMaltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Learn more about MaltodextrinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPCA is an amino acid derivative and one of the star players in your skin's own Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
The NMF is the built-in cocktail of small molecules that keeps your outer layer of skin hydrated and your body makes it naturally.
This is why it works so well topically; PCA is a humectant that holds water in the stratum corneum and studies link higher skin PCA levels to better hydration + lower water loss. Interestingly, people show more PCA in summer and in normal vs dry skin.
Most of the benefits of this ingredient are related to hydration, softness, and barrier support.
A long-running review found that formulas with at least 2% PCA or its salts improved dry skin over both the short and long term. And the zinc salt is also used for its mild antimicrobial and astringent properties.
The salt forms are more common in cosmetics (like sodium PCA).
This ingredient is compatible with basically everything and pairs well with other humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid.
Usage-wise, it's typically used at low percentages (~0.2-2%).
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded PCA and its salts are safe as used and is non-irritating on skin even at high concentrations.
Learn more about PCAPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.
This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.
Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.
Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.
Learn more about PhenylalanineProline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineSodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Learn more about Sodium LactateSodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Learn more about Sodium PCAThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Valine is one of the essential amino acids (meaning your body can't make it on its own and has to get it from food).
In skincare, it's usually synthetically-made or pulled from plant proteins like soy.
It's one of the small building blocks that make up your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the built-in system that helps skin hold onto water. So its main job in a formula is to give the skin gentle hydration and help it feel more comfortable.
Typical amounts are very tiny: roughly 0.00004%-0.5% in leave on products and up to 1% in rinse-off ones.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has looked at this ingredient and found no evidence of it being a skin irritant or allergen at cosmetic levels.
Learn more about ValineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterYeast extract is a silky, clear liquid derived from yeast (usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae or Torula yeast).
This ingredient has plenty of skin benefits:
Bioferments of yeast and soy have been found to reduce hyperpigmentation at low levels.
Yeast extract is fungal acne safe because it's made up of amino acids, peptides, B vitamins, and nucleotides (not the C11-C24 fatty acids that Malassezia needs to thrive).
The "yeast" in the name can be misleading, but FA safety is about chemical composition and not ingredient origin.
Learn more about Yeast Extract