Serum
Serum
Chinese China
Chinese China

What's inside

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Show highlights for:

Water

Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Cyclopentasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Solvent

Tranexamic Acid

Astringent
Tranexamic Acid IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Emulsifying
May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Boron Nitride

Absorbent
Good for Oily Skin Icon

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Masking
Fragrance IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ectoin

Skin Conditioning
Ectoin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydroxyacetophenone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Polyacrylate-13

Retinol

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Perioral Dermatitis IconMay worsen Psoriasis IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Polysorbate 20

Emulsifying
0 / 0 May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyisobutene

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Ergothioneine

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconGood for Dark Spots IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Emulsifying

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Ceramide AP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sorbitan Isostearate

Emulsifying
1-2 / 0 May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide EOP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

1,10-Decanediol

Solvent

Sodium Chloride

Masking

Gardenia Florida Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Skin Conditioning

Disodium EDTA

Diisopropyl Adipate

Emollient
0 / 0

Glucose

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Antimicrobial
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Sebacic Acid

Buffering

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract

Skin Conditioning

Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract

Skin Conditioning

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Phytosphingosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Aroma

Synthetic Fragrance Icon

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

BHA

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Sodium Benzoate

Masking
Preservative Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Emulsion Stabilising
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.

The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.

Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:

“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”

INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".

However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.

In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.

Learn more about Aroma
BHT
Antioxidant, Masking

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Learn more about BHT
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Learn more about Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) is a retinoid that is part of the same vitamin A family as retinol.

It is an ester of retinoic acid that binds directly to your skin's retinoic acid receptors so it doesn't need your skin to convert it through several steps before it can do anything.

In practice, this means it does the classic retinoid jobs in a formula:

The best part is that it can do all this with noticeably less redness, flaking, and stinging than traditional retinoids.

That gentle reputation is backed by lab work as well; a 2018 study on skin models found that HPR triggered higher retinoid-gene activity than retinol, retinal, or retinyl propionate at the same concentrations while being less irritating to cells.

It also boosted procollagen production to levels similar to retinoic acid itself.

A 2023 study showed HPR works synergistically with retinyl propionate to switch on collagen-building pathways and a 2025 clinical serum study in women with mild photoaging saw improvements in wrinkles and elasticity (though that formula also contained retinol, peptides, and Silybin).

One naming quirk worth mentioning:

You'll likely see this ingredient sold under the trade name "Granactive Retinoid", which is actually only 10% HPR blended with 90% Dimethyl Isosorbide solvent. This means a 5% Granactive Retinoid really only means about 0.5% HPR.

Finished products typically land somewhere between 0.05-1% and it's happiest formulated at a mildly acidic to neutral pH (~5.5-6.5).

Another perk is that this is one of the more light- and temperature-stable retinoids which is a nice bonus for shelf life.

Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin Conditioning

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Learn more about Retinol
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate

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