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What's inside

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Show highlights for:

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Emollient
Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Zea Mays Germ Oil

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Ethylhexyl Pelargonate

Emollient
2 / 3

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Emollient
1 / 2

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Emollient

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Diisostearyl Malate

Emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Water

Skin Conditioning

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance Icon

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Emulsifying
0-1 / 0 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

PCA Glyceryl Oleate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Emollient
0 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil Icon

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Charcoal Powder

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconHelps fight Acne IconGood for Oily Skin Icon

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Dextrin

Absorbent

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconEU Allergen Icon

Maltodextrin

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Dibutyl Adipate

Emollient

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Humectant
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Persea Gratissima Oil

Skin Conditioning
0-3 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Antimicrobial
Oil IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

Decyl Glucoside

Cleansing
Coconut Derived Icon

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Antioxidant
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconAntioxidant IconHelps fight Acne IconGood for Oily Skin IconMay worsen Eczema Icon

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Astringent
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Skin Conditioning

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Masking
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract

Astringent

Centella Asiatica Extract

Cleansing
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glycoproteins

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Madecassoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Madecassic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Asiaticoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Asiatic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Emollient
Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Zea Mays Germ Oil

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Emollient
2-3 / 0 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.

The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.

Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.

Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.

Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Ethylhexyl Stearate mainly acts as an emollient that helps hydate skin. It can also be used to reduce the greasiness of oils in a formula.

Because this ingredient contains a C18 fatty acid chain, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and stearic acid.

Learn more about Ethylhexyl Stearate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

This ingredient is the hydrolyzed form of Gardenia florida, a shrub native to East Asia. It has antioxidant properties because the plant is rich in polyphenolic compounds like catechin, rutin, quercetin, and gallic acid.

Lab studies confirm that gardenia extracts demonstrate free-radical scavenging activity and a peer-reviewed study showing gardenia fruit extract can calm UV-triggered skin inflammation.

Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

Learn more about Maltodextrin

PCA Glyceryl Oleate isn't fungal acne safe.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It is volatile, meaning it evaporates off the skin.

Fragrant components of Rose Geranium include citronellol and geraniol. These may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles traditional roses.

Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

This silica is mainly used to thicken oils and suspend particles in oils. It is not water soluble.

According to the manufacturer, it:

The manufacturer also claims this ingredient to be useful in makeup.

In lipstick formulations, this ingredient improves color payoff, reduces pigment settling, and reduces oil bleeding. This ingredient also improves the grip of powder products such as dry shampoos.

Learn more about Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate is a surfactant and emulsifier.

This ingredient is a tetraester from oleic acid and polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it helps ingredients such as oil and water mix together. This allows the dirt and oils in your skin to be washed away.

One study found pumpkin oil containing Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate helped hydrate the skin and did not cause any irritation.

Learn more about Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Sesquioleate is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is an emulsifier and prevents ingredients from separating.

Specifically, this ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier, meaning it helps water dissolve into oil.

Some studies suggest this ingredient may cause irritation in some people. If you are unsure, it is best to patch test.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe due to the oleic acid. In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

Learn more about Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Zea Mays Germ Oil comes from corn.

It is an occlusive skin conditioning agent.