What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Hydroxystearate
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientTetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Stearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCeteareth-20
CleansingSteareth-10
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentGlycolic Acid
BufferingSqualane
EmollientParfum
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPropylparaben
PreservativeRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Steareth-10, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Glycolic Acid, Squalane, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methylparaben, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Propylparaben, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 60, Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Copper Gluconate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientTrimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventMyristyl Nicotinate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantBis-Stearyl Dimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingStearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingAstrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingBisabolol
AntioxidantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningBacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
EmulsifyingPentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil/Behenic Acid/Aminopropanediol Amides/Esters
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantEvodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientSodium Isostearate
CleansingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingResveratrol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingMica
Cosmetic ColorantRutin
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Propanediol, Myristyl Nicotinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Saccharide Isomerate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-40 Stearate, Astrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil, Polysilicone-11, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-20, Bisabolol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil/Behenic Acid/Aminopropanediol Amides/Esters, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine, Isohexadecane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dipotassium Phosphate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Resveratrol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Lactic Acid, Mica, Rutin, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, CI 77891, CI 77491
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum