What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingTranexamic Acid
AstringentAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPhytic Acid
Cocoglycerides
EmollientSilicon
AbrasivePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingC9-12 Alkane
SolventMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantParfum
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantSalicylic Acid
MaskingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantPolysilicone-11
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSclareolide
MaskingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingWater, Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Phytic Acid, Cocoglycerides, Silicon, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, C9-12 Alkane, Mandelic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Parfum, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, 4-Butylresorcinol, Polysilicone-11, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sclareolide, Sodium Metabisulfite, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientLecithin
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialCetyl Alcohol
EmollientUndecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Skin ConditioningTranexamic Acid
AstringentRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7
Skin ConditioningNiacin
SmoothingMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningDiacetyl Boldine
Skin ConditioningBellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialAzelaic Acid
BufferingAscorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant4-Butylresorcinol
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTriticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCitrus Grandis Fruit Extract
AstringentSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantBHT
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Tocopherol
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantSilica
AbrasiveSodium Chloride
MaskingIsoceteth-10
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingTromethamine
BufferingHydrochloric Acid
BufferingBHA
AntioxidantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Propanediol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Lecithin, Arachidyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Tranexamic Acid, Retinol, Retinal, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7, Niacin, Morus Alba Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Diacetyl Boldine, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Bakuchiol, Azelaic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, 4-Butylresorcinol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Sodium Cholate, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Silica, Sodium Chloride, Isoceteth-10, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Oleate, Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Tromethamine, Hydrochloric Acid, BHA, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Potassium Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as rucinol. It's an antioxidant and one of the best-studied tyrosinase inhibitors (skin brightener) in cosmetic chemistry.
This ingredient works in a few complimentary ways:
In head-to-head biochemical assays, it outperformed kojic acid, arbutin, and even hydroquinone at slowing melanin production.
Clinically, 0.1% has shown to improve melasma visibly after just 4 weeks. Another liposome-encapsulated version performed similarly well and an Indian study on 0.3% showed significant melasma reduction over 8 weeks with no adverse events reported.
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated. A very small amount of people have experienced mild dryness or peeling at a higher concentration (0.3%).
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is sensitive to air. Good formulations should account for this to keep your rucinol effective.
Be sure to also check out Thiamidol, another "hydroquinone alternative".
Learn more about 4-ButylresorcinolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeThis ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
Itâs often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skinâs lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.
Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.
Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.
This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:
This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.
The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.
Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.
Learn more about Tranexamic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum