Allies of Skin Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Propanediol
Solvent
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Emollient
Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin Conditioning
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Antioxidant
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Asiaticoside
Antioxidant
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Arginine
Masking
Glycolipids
Skin ConditioningOrnithine
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin Conditioning
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Lecithin
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Levulinic Acid
Perfuming
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Cyclodextrin
AbsorbentPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Phospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Hexapeptide-8
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning
Water, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Ubiquinone, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Arginine, Glycolipids, Ornithine, Retinal, Bisabolol, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Levulinic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cyclodextrin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Phospholipids, Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Isononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCastor Isostearate Succinate
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
PEG-33
HumectantPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide Ng
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Abrasive
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Emollient
Salix Alba Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
Emollient
Lecithin
Emollient
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Humectant
Sorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingTribehenin
Emollient
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
Emulsifying
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
EmollientPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingPEG-8 Dimethicone
Emulsifying
PEG-14
HumectantMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent
Arachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArachidyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a lab-made peptide with anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing benefits. It's made up of four amino acids (glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine) and palmitic acid (which helps it penetrate skin more effectively).
This ingredient helps reduce inflammation by limiting the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a chemical that triggers inflammatory responses, particularly after UV exposure.
Less inflammation = slower collagen breakdown and a longer-lasting, youthful appearance.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 also stimulates collagen production and supports a healthier skin barrier.
Over time, this can improve skin firmness, hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It’s commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
This ingredient has been shown to be effective and safe in cosmetic use and you'll typically find it in small amounts (less than 0.01%).
Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is also known as pal-GHK. It is made up of 3 amino acids and palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
This peptide is as a signal peptide, meaning it tells the skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the key protein that helps form the skin's structure and keep it plump, firm, and hydrated.
By boosting collagen production, this ingredient supports a stronger skin barrier and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
You'll most likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex. While results from in-house testing should be viewed cautiously, this peptide duo is among the most studied and widely used in modern skincare.
Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
