What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 20%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantTriethylhexanoin
MaskingButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingMagnesium Sulfate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientCrambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientGlyceryl Undecylenate
EmollientCalcium Gluconate
HumectantPhytic Acid
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 20%, Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Magnesium Sulfate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Lecithin, Isostearic Acid, Gluconolactone, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Maltodextrin, Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Calcium Gluconate, Phytic Acid, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Zinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantSqualane
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water
MaskingPyrus Malus Fruit Water
MaskingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate
Silica
AbrasiveCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMagnesium Sulfate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantEctoin
Skin ConditioningShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialArginine
MaskingCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningMarrubium Vulgare Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentPsidium Guajava Leaf Extract
AstringentDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantIsostearic Acid
CleansingC9-12 Alkane
SolventHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
EmollientPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningDilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Lactic Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Lysate Extract
HumectantPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide, Squalane, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water, Pyrus Malus Fruit Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate, Silica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Sulfate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Propanediol, CI 77891, Ectoin, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Sorbitan Olivate, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Gluconolactone, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Isostearic Acid, C9-12 Alkane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Phospholipids, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Lecithin, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. The original comedogenic testing on rabbit ear actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinMagnesium Sulfate is a salt. More specifically, it is an epsom salt, or the bath salt used to help relieve muscle aches.
Despite having ‘sulfate’ in the name, it isn’t a surfactant or cleansing agent like sodium lauryl sulfate. Unlike those sulfates, magnesium sulfate doesn’t have the same cleansing or foaming properties (it's simply a type of salt).
In cosmetics, Magnesium Sulfate is used to thicken a product or help dilute other solids. It is a non-reactive and non-irritating ingredient.
One study shows magnesium deficiency may lead to inflammation of the skin. Applying magnesium topically may help reduce inflammation.
You can find this ingredient in sea water or mineral deposits.
Learn more about Magnesium SulfatePolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidShea Butter Ethyl Esters is basically an "eco-designed" emollient ester derived from shea butter.
You can think of it like shea butter's lighter, more elegant sibling. The creating of this ingredient preserves shea butter's beneficial fatty acid profile while dramatically improving spreadability/skin feel.
This makes it a great choice for spray formulations, serums, and lightweight moisturizers where traditional shea butter would be too heavy.
It's rapidly absorbed on skin and provides an instant moisturizing effect and velvety after-feel.
These conditioning benefits trace back to shea's well-studied bioactive profile; shea is rich in antioxidants like tocopherols and contains stearic and oleic acids that support skin barrier health.
It also contains triterpene alcohols known to reduce inflammation, cinnamic acid esters with some UV-absorbing capacity, and lupeol that protects skin proteins.
Research backs up those triterpenes: a study isolating triterpene acetates and cinnamates from shea fat found all tested compounds showed anti-inflammatory activity in mice.
Fungal acne: Because this is an ethyl ester derived from shea's long-chain fatty acids (primarily stearic C18 and oleic C18), in vitro testing has shown the Malassezia species can grow in the presence of ethyl esters. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Shea Butter Ethyl EstersTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide