What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientIllicium Verum Fruit Extract
PerfumingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingWater, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Diisostearyl Malate, Dimethicone, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Hydroxide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, CI 77491, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPolyisobutene
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingCoptis Japonica Extract
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Extensin
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantSerine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningWater, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Polyisobutene, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Coptis Japonica Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Polysorbate 20, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Beta-Glucan, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phosphatidylcholine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Lysine, Alanine, Arginine, Threonine, Proline
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.
Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).
This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.
Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.
It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.
This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.
Learn more about Limnanthes Alba Seed OilPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water