This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Didecene
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingCucumis Melo Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAgar
MaskingGlutathione
Arbutin
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialTris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
StabilisingAmyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
MaskingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialHippophae Rhamnoides Water, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Didecene, Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo Seed Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Jojoba Esters, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Agar, Glutathione, Arbutin, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium DNA, Ferulic Acid, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Bakuchiol
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTapioca Starch
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningChitosan
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAminomethyl Propanediol
BufferingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingBehenic Acid
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientGlutathione
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantDextrin
AbsorbentBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientWater, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Tapioca Starch, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Chitosan, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Diisostearyl Malate, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behenic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glutathione, Allantoin, Myristic Acid, Ceramide NP, Madecassoside, Dextrin, Beta-Glucan, Cholesterol, Asiaticoside, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ferulic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Lactic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCoptis Japonica Root Extract, also known as Japanese Goldthread, is a traditional East Asian herb. It is prized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.
That’s not all - research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that its active compound, berberine, may help reduce fat accumulation and slow down fat cell development.
This makes it a promising ingredient for slimming and anti-cellulite products!
Learn more about Coptis Japonica Root ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinFerulic Acid is a plant based antioxidant that can be naturally found in the cell walls of grains like rice, oats, and corn. It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, and has the ability to boost the performance of other antioxidants as well.
A well-known study found that adding Ferulic Acid to a solution of Vitamins C and E doubled the photoprotection of skin. This is why you'll often see it paired with Vitamin C or Vitamin E serums rather than sold on its own.
A 2025 review of 18 human studies found that using Ferulic Acid (0.5-1%) daily for one to three months showed improvements in:
As far as allergies go, Ferulic acid is generally well-tolerated but can cause an allergic reaction in very rare cases. It's also worth noting that Ferulic acid is often extracted from plant sources like rice bran or wheat bran, so be sure to path test if you have known grain allergies.
Outside of skincare, researchers are also looking into Ferulic Acid for its potential benefits in areas like diabetes, Alzheimer's, and heart health.
Learn more about Ferulic AcidGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate Citrate is a citric acid ester of glyceryl stearate.
It is an emulsifier, emollient, and a surfactant.
Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating. Common ingredients include oils and water, which do not mix naturally. Emulsifiers have properties that help keep ingredients such as these together.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
Surfactants help gather oils, dirt, and other pollutants from the skin. This helps them to be easily rinsed away.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate CitrateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePolyglyceryl-3 Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum