What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides
EmollientGlycolic Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Dilaurate
EmollientAcetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientAcetyl Tyrosinamide
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPEG-100 Stearate
Steareth-10
EmulsifyingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantMethyl Decenol
MaskingHydrogenated Palm Glycerides
EmollientIsocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingPropylene Carbonate
SolventGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingIsobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingIsoceteth-10
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveDisodium EDTA
Methyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingEthylene Brassylate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide, Dimethicone, Acetyl Tyrosinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, PEG-100 Stearate, Steareth-10, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Methyl Decenol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Isostearic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sclerotium Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-40 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Isopropyl Myristate, Ceteareth-20, Isobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Isoceteth-10, Silica, Disodium EDTA, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Ethylene Brassylate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSqualane
EmollientIsostearyl Isostearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantPEG-100 Stearate
Sucrose Polystearate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dextrin Palmitate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate-13
Ceramide NP
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingParfum
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Sucrose Stearate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCedrol
EmollientMadecassoside
AntioxidantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientMyristica Fragrans Extract
MaskingCholesterol
EmollientTrisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Glycine
CleansingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantMagnolia Obovata Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
EmollientHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycosphingolipids
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Isostearyl Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Trehalose, PEG-100 Stearate, Sucrose Polystearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Serine, C14-22 Alcohols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dextrin Palmitate, Polyacrylate-13, Ceramide NP, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Tocopherol, Arginine, Parfum, Carbomer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Polyisobutene, Sucrose Stearate, Glycine Soja Oil, Stearic Acid, Cedrol, Madecassoside, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, CI 77891, Mica, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, Myristica Fragrans Extract, Cholesterol, Trisodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Glycine, CI 77491, Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Glycosphingolipids, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water