What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentPhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningMonascus Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingSantalum Album Oil
MaskingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingVinyldimethicone
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Dextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Shell Powder
AbrasiveLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment
Skin ProtectingLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Lecithin
EmollientGlucose
HumectantPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingSucrose Distearate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingBifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Water, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Trehalose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Monascus Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Vinyldimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycosyl Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Shell Powder, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Glucose, Polyquaternium-51, Ceramide NP, Myristic Acid, Sucrose Distearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Saccharomyces Ferment, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentNiacinamide
SmoothingIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethiconol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
PEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Distarch Phosphate, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-3, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Butylene Glycol, Dimethiconol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Titanium Dioxide, Mica
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water