What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAminopropyl Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientAmodimethicone
Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin
Skin ConditioningGamma-Docosalactone
Skin ConditioningMeadowfoam Delta-Lactone
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantCetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Polylysine
Hematin
Polyquaternium-61
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-64
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSqualane
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingPCA
HumectantGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeDicocodimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingCeteth-20
CleansingDiethyl Sebacate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate-13
PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
MoisturisingPolyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantAlcohol
AntimicrobialPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Gamma-Docosalactone, Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Silk, Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Polylysine, Hematin, Polyquaternium-61, Polyquaternium-64, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cholesterol, Steartrimonium Chloride, Dicocodimonium Chloride, Ceteth-20, Diethyl Sebacate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Alcohol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientOleyl Oleate
EmollientSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientMeadowfoam Delta-Lactone
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingBis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
EmollientTremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Emulsion StabilisingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhytantriol
HumectantPolyquaternium-10
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantC15-19 Alkane
SolventButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantTaurine
BufferingDihydroxypropyl Arginine Hcl
HumectantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantLysine Hcl
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingHistidine Hcl
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantThreonine
Valine
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
MaskingPolyquaternium-61
Skin ConditioningPCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
MoisturisingParfum
MaskingWater, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Oleate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 80, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Polyquaternium-10, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, C15-19 Alkane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Silk, Taurine, Dihydroxypropyl Arginine Hcl, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Glycerin, Lysine Hcl, Alanine, Arginine, Histidine Hcl, Serine, Proline, Glutamic Acid, Threonine, Valine, Leucine, Glycine, Allantoin, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Polyquaternium-61, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Hydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.
Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.
Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.
Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.
This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:
Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenHydrolyzed Keratin is derived from keratin. Keratin is a large protein that is naturally found in our hair and skin.
Studies show keratin is able to seal broken hair cuticles, helping to prevent split ends and breakage.
As a humectant, hydrolyzed keratin helps draw moisture from the air to your hair and skin. This helps keep your skin and hair hydrated.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed KeratinYou can find hydrolyzed silk in both haircare and skincare products. According to a manufacturer, it can help improve skin and hair hydration.
This ingredient is created by adding acid or enzymes to 'hydrolyze' silk protein.
Due to the origins of this ingredient, it is not vegan. Silk is an animal product from silkworms.
Depending on the source, this ingredient can be considered cruelty-free. It is created from left-over cocoons of silkworms. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about where their hydrolyzed silk comes from.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed SilkIsoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.
Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.
We don't have a description for Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone yet.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWe don't have a description for PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate yet.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.
This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.
Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.
Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.
Learn more about PhenylalanineWe don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.
We don't have a description for Polyquaternium-61 yet.
Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.
An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.
This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.
Learn more about ValineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water