What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBoron Nitride
AbsorbentCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningCoconut Alkanes
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientBis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlucose
HumectantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingThioctic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLaureth-23
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Carbonate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Chloride
MaskingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Boron Nitride, Caffeine, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Coconut Alkanes, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Niacinamide, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glucose, Biotin, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Lecithin, Cetyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ubiquinone, Citric Acid, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Steareth-20, Thioctic Acid, Tocopherol, Chrysin, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Laureth-23, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCystoseira Humilis Extract
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBentonite
AbsorbentCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Sorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingCellulose
AbsorbentCoffea Arabica Seedcake Extract
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingSh-Polypeptide-121
Skin ConditioningSisymbrium Irio Seed Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbic Acid
PreservativeCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingUbiquinone
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientDecapeptide-52
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Alcohol
AntimicrobialSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAvena Sativa Peptide
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Sorbitan Olivate, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cystoseira Humilis Extract, Panthenol, Bentonite, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sorbitan Palmitate, Cellulose, Coffea Arabica Seedcake Extract, Allantoin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Gluconolactone, Niacinamide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ubiquinone, Lecithin, Decapeptide-52, Sodium Chloride, Maltodextrin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Avena Sativa Peptide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Palmitate is a wax-like substance.
It comes from palmitic acid and palmityl alcohol. Cetyl Palmitate may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne.
This ingredient is naturally found in the guava fruit and stony corals.
Learn more about Cetyl PalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateUbiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.
Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.
The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:
Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.
When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.
Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.
Learn more about UbiquinoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum