Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingOlus Oil
EmollientPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingOlive Oil PEG-7 Esters
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientCera Alba
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
ChelatingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium PCA
HumectantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantDaphne Odora Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel FormingNicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningPlumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Olus Oil, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG-8, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharide Isomerate, C12-16 Alcohols, Cera Alba, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium PCA, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Daphne Odora Callus Extract, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Aluminum Hydroxide, Retinol, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Potassium Sorbate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-7 Triacetate
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingSd Alcohol 40-B
AstringentHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantGlycine
BufferingCarnitine Hcl
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantHexylresorcinol
AntimicrobialEmblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantIsoquercetin
AntioxidantMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantPhytic Acid
ChelatingCitric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
ChelatingSodium Citrate
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingDenatonium Benzoate
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Lactic Acid, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ascorbic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycine, Carnitine Hcl, Ubiquinone, Hexylresorcinol, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isoquercetin, Mandelic Acid, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Denatonium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSuperoxide Dismutase is found in all living cells. This ingredient is AKA as 'SOD'.
SOD is a strong antioxidant. It protects living cells against oxidative damage by breaking down radical molecules into regular oxygen and hydrogen peroxide.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules that may damage your skin's DNA. This may help with the signs of aging. Due to its antioxidant property, it is used to help treat chronic inflammation.
In cosmetics, SOD is usually obtained from marine phytoplankton, bovine liver, horseradish, cantaloupe, and certain bacteria.
The three major families of SOD include: Copper/Zinc, Iron/Manganese, and Nickel.
When eating SOD-rich foods, our bodies break it down into amino acids before absorption. Foods that contain SOD include: melons, citrus, spinach, broccoli, kale, almonds, sunflower seeds, and blue-green algae.
Learn more about Superoxide DismutaseWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum