Swanicoco Peptine Biome Cream

Swanicoco Peptine Biome Cream

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Overview

What it is

General moisturizer with 83 ingredients that contains hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and peptides

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, oils, parabens, silicones or sulfates

Fun facts

Swanicoco is from South Korea.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

56
17
10

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Skin Conditioning

Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract

Humectant

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Water

Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Isohexadecane

Emollient

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Synthetic Beeswax

Emulsion Stabilising
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Emollient
1 / 2

Cetearyl Olivate

Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sorbitan Stearate

Emulsifying
0 / 1 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Propanediol

Solvent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sorbitan Olivate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Emulsion Stabilising

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Sodium Polyacrylate

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Emollient
Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Emulsion Stabilising

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sorbitan Isostearate

Emulsifying
1-2 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Disodium EDTA

Trideceth-6

Emulsifying

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Emulsion Stabilising

Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment Filtrate

Humectant

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Bacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Bifida Ferment Filtrate

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Yeast

Skin Conditioning

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Fructooligosaccharides

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Fructose

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Inulin

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Lactose

Humectant

Mannitol

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Maltodextrin

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Raffinose

Skin Conditioning

Sorbitol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Skin Protecting
Peptide Icon

Tripeptide-3

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Dipeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Hexapeptide-2

Bleaching
Peptide Icon

Oligopeptide-6

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Humectant
Peptide Icon

Avena Sativa Peptide

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Hexapeptide-9

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Hexapeptide-11

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Nonapeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Pentapeptide-3

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Tripeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract, Glycerin, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Synthetic Beeswax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Stearate, Propanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Trideceth-6, Xanthan Gum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Bacillus Ferment, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Yeast, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Inulin, Lactose, Mannitol, Maltodextrin, Raffinose, Sorbitol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-2, Oligopeptide-6, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Avena Sativa Peptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-11, Nonapeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Parfum

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

This ingredient comes from the callus cells of ginseng.

Ginseng is rich in antioxidants, favonoids, and vitamins B12 and D.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.

Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.

Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.

Learn more about Isohexadecane
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsion Stabilising

Synthetic beeswax is created to be identical in structure to beeswax without involving bees, making it a go-to for vegan formulas.

It's mainly used an an emulsion stabilizer and thickener.

This ingredient (alongside other synthetic waxes) have been concluded to be safe in cosmetics under the present practices.

Reported usage goes up to 18% and it is non-sensitizing.

Just one caveat for fungal acne: This ingredient is made up of C16-32 fatty acids and fatty acid esters. Part of this overlaps with the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on, so it's not fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Synthetic Beeswax
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Cetearyl Olivate
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.

It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.

Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Sorbitan Stearate
Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin. 

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer and used to help stabilize other ingredients.

Emulsion stabilizers hold ingredients together, helping to create an even texture throughout the product.

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate can also be used to thicken the texture.

Learn more about Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Absorbent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a sugar created by fermenting sorbitol (which usually comes from potato starch!). It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.

Manufacturer tests show this ingredient helped reduce irritation from lactic acid by almost half and kept skin hydrated long-term as a humectant

Beyond hydration, Biosaccharide Gum-1 gives formulas a silky, non-sticky feel.

This ingredient is gentle, versatile, and suitable for all skin types.

Fun fact: Similar sugars can be found naturally in fruits like apples and pears.

Learn more about Biosaccharide Gum-1
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene

Ethylhexyl Stearate mainly acts as an emollient that helps hydate skin. It can also be used to reduce the greasiness of oils in a formula.

Because this ingredient contains a C18 fatty acid chain, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and stearic acid.

Learn more about Ethylhexyl Stearate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin
Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.

This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.

This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.

Learn more about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Learn more about Sorbitan Isostearate

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Emulsifying, Surfactant

We don't have a description for Trideceth-6 yet.

Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer made from ammonium salts. It works as a thickener, emulsifier, and texture enhancer that gives gel-creams a silky, lightweight feel.

This ingredient is versatile and low-maintenance so manufacturers love working with it.

Typical usage levels in cosmetics are usually low and in the range of 0.015 - 2.3%.

Learn more about Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

We don't have a description for Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment Filtrate yet.

Skin Conditioning

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.

These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.

One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.

A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.

In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Bifida Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning

Bacillus Ferment is created by fermenting Bacillus bacteria with yeast extract and carbohydrates. It acts as a humectant and, depending on the strain, can also provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation.

Depending on the strain and formulation, it may also act as a peptide, probiotic, or prebiotic. Certain strains of Bacillus Ferment help support the skin’s microbiome, soothe inflammation, and promote barrier repair and hydration.

It’s typically used at 0.5-5% concentration, either for mild exfoliation or to improve overall skin health and texture.

Some studies show that Bacillus species can inhibit certain plant fungi (such as Fusarium verticillioides and Fusarium oxysporum) used in agricultural biocontrol. However, these are filamentous molds, not the yeast (Malassezia furfur) responsible for fungal acne.

At this time, there are no studies showing that Bacillus Ferment inhibits Malassezia or that it has been tested on human skin or in cosmetic formulations. Because of this lack of cosmetic and dermatological research, we list Bacillus Ferment as not safe for fungal acne as a precaution. However, it may not trigger breakouts for everyone.

Learn more about Bacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a postbiotic made by fermenting Bifidobacterium (a probiotic bacteria) and then filtering out the liquid portion. It has skin conditioning properties.

Much of the evidence for this ingredient is borrowed from the lysate form of this ingredient, which has a much stronger research base.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Skin Conditioning

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic created by fermenting Lactoccus lactis, a type of bacteria more commonly used to create Lactic acid.

Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.

This ingredient offers promising benefits, but it is relatively new and more evidence is needed to prove its efficacy. The manufacturer claims this ingredient:

A study from 2022 found this ingredient helped protect skin against damaged from UV exposure (though this should not replace your sunscreen!).

The lysate in the ingredient name refers to a fluid that forms from breaking down the cell membrane.

Learn more about Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.

As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:

A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.

One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.

Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.

Why is this so cool?

Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.

So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.

On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.

Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.

Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.

Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.

Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.

Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.

Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment

This ingredient is created by fermenting soybean extract with the bacteria, lactobacillus.

Some studies have shown it to have antioxidant properties. One study found this ingredient to have stronger properties than non-fermented soybean extract.

Another study found in increase of isoflavones, amino acids, and peptides in fermented soy milk.

Learn more about Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is the watery, nutrient-rich liquid left over after you ferment a yeast (genus Saccharomyces).

The yeast cells themselves are filtered out so you're getting the "broth" of skin-friendly molecules: amino acids, peptides, minerals, vitamins, organic acids, and beta-glucan.

Evidence-wise, its relatives (like Galactomyces) are the ones with the most published lab work. Keratinocyte studies show these ferments can boost barrier-related markers. This ingredient is generally assumed to behave similarly thanks to its overlapping composition.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its a fermentation filtrate. The exact composition is batch-variable and can include fatty acids and lipids byproducts.

Learn more about Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Yeast yet.

Skin Conditioning

Rice Ferment Filtrate is created by fermenting rice, or oryza sativa. A common name for this ingredient is sake, the traditional Japanese fermented rice alcoholic beverage.

Rice ferment is skin-conditioning and contains anti-aging components.

Rice contains numerous antioxidants which may help with anti-aging, such as vitamin E. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. Unstable free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and accelerate signs of aging.

A study from 2013 found fermented rice water to help decrease sun damage by increasing collagen production.

Learn more about Rice Ferment Filtrate
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are a type of prebiotic sugar with humectant and skin conditioning properties. As a humectant, they help attract and hold moisture in the skin.

FOS essentially acts as a food source for the "good" bacteria on your skin and make it harder for "bad" bacteria to thrive. A 2022 study using a reconstructured human skin model found that just 1% of FOS was enough to shift the bacteria balance in favor of beneficial species. This suggests it could help support a healthier skin microbiome over time.

This ingredient has a low sensitization risk and testing shows it does not classify as a skin irritant or sensitizer.

FOS are usually produced from sugar beets and can also be found in foods like bananas, garlic, and onions.

Learn more about Fructooligosaccharides
Humectant

Fructose is fruit/plant sugar. It can be found in apples, figs, and honey.

This ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated.

Skin Conditioning

Inulin is a polysaccharide (carbohydrate) with prebiotic and antioxidant properties.

The majority of inulin is extracted from chicory, but can also be obtained from other plants such as garlic, onion, asparagus, and sugarcane.

Studies show inulin may help with controlling your skin's natural microbiota when applied topically.

The antioxidant potential of inulin varies depending on the source.

Learn more about Inulin
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Lactose is a naturally derived milk sugar with humectant and skin conditioning properties. It helps draw and hold moisture in the outermost layer of skin.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) concludes lactose is generally considered low risk for irritation in topical products.

By the way, lactose is not an exfoliating acid like lactic acid or lactobionic acid. And since it's typically animal-derived, it's not usually vegan.

Learn more about Lactose
Humectant, Masking, Moisturising

Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.

When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.

Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.

Learn more about Mannitol
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

Learn more about Maltodextrin
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Raffinose yet.

Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.

Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.

As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.

It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.

Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.

Learn more about Sorbitol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide also commonly known as SNAP-8. It is a lab-made peptide often marketed as a gentler, topical alternative to Botox.

It works by mimicking part of a protein involved in muscle contractions, which may help relax facial tension and reduce the appearance of fine lines (mostly around the eyes and forehead).

It’s considered a “next-gen” version of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), an older peptide with more research behind it that also supports collagen production.

SNAP-8 showed slightly better results than Argireline in one small manufacturer-funded study, but there’s limited independent research. Plus, most tests use concentrations higher than what’s typically found in skincare products.

This ingredient might offer a subtle smoothing effect but it won't don’t deliver the dramatic results of actual Botox injections.

Think of it more like a supporting actor in your skincare lineup.

Learn more about Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Skin Protecting

This biometic peptide is designed to support hair growth.

According to a manufacturer, it stimulates hair growth by:

The manufacturer has found combining this ingredient with red clover extract (Capixyl) boosted benefits. Not only does it enforce the scalp's extracellular matrix, it also inhibits the enzyme that creates DHT, a hormone that leads to hair loss.

While this ingredient is promising, more research is still needed to confirm its full effectiveness.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin Conditioning

Tripeptide-3 is a peptide.

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 is a signal peptide. Signal peptides tell your skin to create collagen or start tissue repair.

This peptide plays a role in key skin components such as collagen, lumican, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Lumican is used in collagen organization and regulation, while GAGs are a component that holds water in our skin.

The manufacturer claims this ingredient is effective at firming the skin and enhancing skin hydration.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Tripeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide. It acts as a signal peptide, or a peptide that promotes the production of collagen.

Skin Conditioning

Dipeptide-4 is a peptide.

Bleaching, Skin Conditioning

Hexapeptide-2 is a peptide.

Skin Conditioning

Oligopeptide-6 is a peptide.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is a peptide that goes by another name, eyeseryl, due to claims that it can help reduce eye puffiness.

The manufacturer claims this ingredient reduces eye puffiness by:

An in-vivo study from the manufacturer found 95% of volunteers saw eye bag improvement by the end of the study.

Eye puffiness is caused by two major factors: fluid retention and fat.

Those with fluid retention may see improvement from using this ingredient. However, those with eye fat will need surgical intervention in order to get rid of puffiness.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Skin Conditioning

This peptide is extracted from oat. It has skin conditioning properties.

Peptides are great for boosting hydration.

Skin Conditioning

This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.

It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin Conditioning

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning

Dipeptide-2 is a peptide. It can help to reduce the effects of aging.

Skin Conditioning

Peptides are amino acids naturally found in your skin. These amino acids make up many proteins your skin uses. Collagen is made up of peptides. Collagen is responsible for keeping your skin plump and youthful.

Skin Conditioning

Hexapeptide-9 is a signaling peptide that is made to mimic a fragment found naturally in collagen IV and XVII.

It is classified as a matrikine peptide and works by telling your skin cells (especially fibroblasts) to ramp up collagen and hyaluronic acid production.

In-vitro studies show it can enhance epidermal regeneration, boost synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV, and improved markers of skin differentiation.

Think of skin differentiation like this: your skin cells are born at the bottom and slowly travel up to the surface as they "grow up". As they move up, they start producing specific proteins that make your skin do its job well. Two of these proteins are keratin (it makes your skin tough) and filaggrin (it breaks apart into tiny molecules to keep your skin hydrated). So Hexapeptide-9 has shown to help skin cells grow up properly and make stronger, more hydrated skin.

A manufacturer also reports increased collagen production by 117% and hyaluronic acid production by 267%.

Just know much of the published data comes from manufacturer-sponsored studies. There is a recent clinical trial showing promising anti-aging results but the evidence base is still growing.

Generally, this ingredient is well-tolerated and there's no harm in using it as a supportive ingredient in your routine.

Learn more about Hexapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning

This synthetic peptide is known as a signal peptide. Signal peptides tell your skin to create more collagen, elastin and protein.

Hexapeptide-11 is composed of several amino acids, including alanine.

Skin Conditioning

Nonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.

It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.

Learn more about Nonapeptide-1
Skin Conditioning

Pentapeptide-3 is a peptide.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.

This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.

GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.

In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.

Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.

Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.

A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.

While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.

Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.

Learn more about Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning

Tripeptide-2 protects our collagen and elastin fibers to slow down the process of aging. It does this by inhibiting the proteins responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.

This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.

Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.

Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.

Learn more about Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7 is a peptide.

This small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.

Learn more about Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.

The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.

Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.

Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.

In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.

Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.

This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).

Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum

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Swanicoco is a Korean brand

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· Updated March 14, 2024 Added by starstellastar_407