This anti-aging serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicGlycerin
HumectantDimethyl Sulfone
SolventHuman Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes
Alpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningErgothioneine
AntioxidantDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantSaccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningRh-Polypeptide-3
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media
EmollientGlycereth-7 Triacetate
EmollientEthoxydiglycol
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantTripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningDimer Tripeptide-43
Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
MaskingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientPullulan
Butylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide
Skin ConditioningNannochloropsis Oculata Extract
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentGeranium Maculatum Extract
TonicTaraxacum Officinale Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAchillea Millefolium Flower Extract
AntioxidantCurcuma Longa Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningSpirulina Platensis Extract
Skin ProtectingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningCassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Histidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingPCA
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAlcohol
AntimicrobialHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingDextran
Disodium EDTA
ChelatingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Pentylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Glycerin, Dimethyl Sulfone, Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes, Alpha-Arbutin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ergothioneine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Ubiquinone, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Rh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Tripeptide-2, Dimer Tripeptide-43, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Chloride, Carbomer, Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantUndecane
EmollientArginine
MaskingInulin
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentCeteareth-20
CleansingTridecane
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPullulan
Tetrapeptide-21
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPentapeptide-18
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningSucrose Palmitate
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCopper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Skin ConditioningHeptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Skin ConditioningBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantDunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPantolactone
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningPolyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Arginine, Inulin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ceteareth-20, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.
Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.
Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.
Learn more about PullulanSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum