Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Nighttime Serum-in-Cream Versus e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Face Cream
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Steareth-21
CleansingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Steareth-2
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Iris Pallida Root Extract
Masking
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Oil
Emollient
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
T-Butyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Lecithin
Emollient
Parfum
Masking
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingRetinol
Skin Conditioning
PEG-8
HumectantPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
BHT
Antioxidant
Chitosan
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Sorbitan Oleate
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Behentrimonium Chloride
Preservative
Limonene
Perfuming
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Potassium Phosphate
BufferingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Masking
Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
Masking
Isopropyl Alcohol
Solvent
Acetic Acid
BufferingAngelica Archangelica Root Extract
Masking
Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract
MaskingMaltodextrin
Absorbent
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingBHA
Antioxidant
Sorbic Acid
Preservative
Water, Sodium Citrate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat., Steareth-21, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Steareth-2, Citric Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Iris Pallida Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Alcohol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Parfum, Adenosine, Cellulose Gum, Retinol, PEG-8, Polysorbate 20, BHT, Chitosan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Tocopherol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Limonene, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Potassium Phosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetic Acid, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Extract, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Lactic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sclerotium Gum, BHA, Sorbic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientStearyl Heptanoate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Isopropyl Isostearate
Emollient
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Cetearyl Olivate
Trehalose
Humectant
Squalane
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Absorbent
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Silica
Abrasive
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Polyethylene
Abrasive
Disodium EDTA
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingWater, Isohexadecane, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Trehalose, Squalane, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Panthenol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyethylene, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
