CKD GUARANTEED Retino Collagen Small Molecule 300 Cream Versus Decorte Liposome Advanced Repair Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydrogenated Lecithin and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Soluble Collagen 53%
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingWater
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-6 Distearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningViola Odorata Leaf Extract
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCymbopogon Martini Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingAniba Rosodora Wood Oil
AstringentMichelia Alba Flower Oil
MaskingJuniperus Mexicana Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil
AstringentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAlanine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientLysine
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
ChelatingValine
MaskingThreonine
Behenyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSodium Laurate
CleansingTyrosine
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingRetinal
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientGlycine
BufferingSucrose Distearate
EmollientSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingProline
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantElastin
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCysteine
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingSoluble Collagen 53%, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Water, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Michelia Alba Flower Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dipropylene Glycol, Beeswax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Alanine, Phenylalanine, Jojoba Esters, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetyl Alcohol, Lysine, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Valine, Threonine, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Laurate, Tyrosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Retinal, Lauric Acid, Sorbitan Laurate, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Glycine, Sucrose Distearate, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Proline, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Isoleucine, Histidine, Hyaluronic Acid, Elastin, Phospholipids, Methionine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Cysteine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingDiphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningRhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
EmollientDisodium EDTA
ChelatingDisodium Succinate
MaskingEctoin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientLauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl Oleate
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
CleansingSuccinic Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Adenosine, Arginine, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract, Hydroxyproline, Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Succinate, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Phytosterols, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosteryl Oleate, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Succinic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineBehenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.
In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.
Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolydeceneLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum