What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Methylpropanediol
SolventPropanediol
SolventSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSuccinoglycan
Skin ConditioningDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDilauryl Thiodipropionate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningLithospermum Officinale Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAlkanna Tinctoria Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningGlucosyl Hesperidin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientSoluble Proteoglycan
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Niacinamide, Behenyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Sodium DNA, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caffeine, Succinoglycan, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Dilauryl Thiodipropionate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Allantoin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Tocopherol, Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Phytosphingosine, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Retinal, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Soluble Proteoglycan, Silica, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Disodium EDTA, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Collagen Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingWater, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Tromethamine, Sodium Lactate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Polysorbate 20, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Panthenol, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineThis ingredient is more commonly known as Zhi Mu root. You might see this ingredient listed under 'Volufiline' products.
That's because 'Volufiline' is comprised of this ingredient and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.
Zhi Mu root is rich in sarsasapogenin. This compound has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
It is commonly used in East Asian medicine.
Learn more about Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root ExtractButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water