What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingBrassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Algin
Maris Aqua
HumectantMedicago Sativa Extract
TonicSpinacia Oleracea
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingBetaine
HumectantGlutamic Acid
HumectantGlycine
BufferingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLysine Hcl
Skin ConditioningPCA
HumectantProline
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium PCA
HumectantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Threonine
Tocopherol
AntioxidantCetearyl Olivate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed
AbrasiveButter
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Maris Aqua, Medicago Sativa Extract, Spinacia Oleracea, Alanine, Arginine, Betaine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lysine Hcl, PCA, Proline, Serine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Threonine, Tocopherol, Cetearyl Olivate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed, Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Squalane, Carbomer, Maltodextrin, Citral, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycolic Acid
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCellulose Acetate Butyrate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialMagnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantPropanediol
SolventArginine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingSerine
MaskingThreonine
Histidine
HumectantProline
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium PCA
HumectantPCA
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingBacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantDecyl Glucoside
CleansingTricaprylin
PerfumingC13-14 Alkane
SolventC15-23 Alkane
SolventLecithin
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveSilica Silylate
EmollientSodium Carbonate
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Retinol, Mandelic Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Propanediol, Arginine, Alanine, Valine, Isoleucine, Glycine, Serine, Threonine, Histidine, Proline, Phenylalanine, Aspartic Acid, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, PCA, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Glutamine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Decyl Glucoside, Tricaprylin, C13-14 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, Lecithin, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silica, Silica Silylate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl Olivate is an emulsifier and texture enhancer. It is derived from the fatty acids of olive oil and Cetearyl alcohol, and is biodegradable.
As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent oils and waters from separating. It can also
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Sorbitan Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may feed that yeast, so it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
PCA is derived from amino acids and is naturally found in our skin's barrier.
As a humectant, PCA helps draw and hold moisture to the skin. Studies show it is effective at helping the skin stay hydrated long-term.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Learn more about Sodium LactateSodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid. It is naturally occurring in our skin's natural moisturizing factors where it works to maintain hydration.
The PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural amino acid derivative.
This ingredient has skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, and humectant properties. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin moisturized.
Learn more about Sodium PCASorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water