What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycolic Acid
Buffering
Glycerin
Humectant
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Masking
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cellulose Acetate Butyrate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Mandelic Acid
Antimicrobial
Magnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantPropanediol
Solvent
Arginine
Masking
Alanine
Masking
Valine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
Buffering
Serine
Masking
Threonine
Histidine
Humectant
Proline
Skin Conditioning
Phenylalanine
Masking
Aspartic Acid
Masking
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sodium PCA
Humectant
PCA
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin Protecting
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Acetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Decyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Tricaprylin
Perfuming
C13-14 Alkane
SolventC15-23 Alkane
SolventLecithin
Emollient
Citric Acid
Buffering
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Sodium Lactate
Buffering
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Silica
Abrasive
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Sodium Carbonate
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Benzoate
Masking
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Retinol, Mandelic Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Propanediol, Arginine, Alanine, Valine, Isoleucine, Glycine, Serine, Threonine, Histidine, Proline, Phenylalanine, Aspartic Acid, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, PCA, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Glutamine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Decyl Glucoside, Tricaprylin, C13-14 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, Lecithin, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silica, Silica Silylate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
Masking
Calendula Officinalis Flower Water
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Stearyl Olivate
Emollient
Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Emollient
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Wax
Skin ConditioningCastor Isostearate Succinate
Skin Conditioning
Himanthalia Elongata Extract
Skin Protecting
Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
AntiseborrhoeicButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Masking
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil
Masking
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Emollient
Lilium Candidum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polyacrylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingLecithin
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingBenzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower Water, Glycerin, Stearyl Olivate, Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Wax, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Himanthalia Elongata Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Beeswax, Persea Gratissima Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Glycolipids, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sclerotium Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinRosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.
Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.
In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.
Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower WaterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
