What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhytosteryl Isostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Water
MaskingPolyacrylate-13
Silica
AbrasiveAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Parfum
MaskingHydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPolymethyl Methacrylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingRetinol
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingRehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Flower Extract
AntioxidantPolygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAcetyl Heptapeptide-4
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantWater, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phytosteryl Isostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Behenyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Polyacrylate-13, Silica, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycine Soja Oil, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metaphosphate, Polysorbate 20, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Linalool, Retinol, Mannitol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Chloride, Limonene, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Flower Extract, Polygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCera Alba
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientDiglycerin
HumectantAcorus Calamus Root Extract
PerfumingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBetula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningEugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
AstringentGlycosaminoglycans
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientMichelia Champaca Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMucuna Birdwoodiana Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPinus Sylvestris Cone Extract
MaskingSantalum Album Wood Extract
PerfumingSodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Skin ConditioningSoluble Proteoglycan
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAlcohol
AntimicrobialAlgin
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCholesterol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Disodium Succinate
MaskingEthyl Oleate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Rapeseed Glycerides
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientLecithin
EmollientOleyl Alcohol
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
CleansingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingSuccinic Acid
BufferingTrisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cera Alba, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Diglycerin, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Adenosine, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Glycosaminoglycans, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Michelia Champaca Flower Extract, Mucuna Birdwoodiana Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Pinus Sylvestris Cone Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Soluble Proteoglycan, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Alcohol, Algin, Carbomer, Cholesterol, Citric Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Succinate, Ethyl Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Glycerides, Isohexadecane, Lecithin, Oleyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Succinic Acid, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water