Versus

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream - UK Versus Institut Esthederm Cellular Melting Moisturising Cream

General Moisturizer
General Moisturizer
American Brand United States
French Brand France

Updated on February 21, 2024

Overview

What they are

These products are both general moisturizers. They have a total of 12 ingredients in common

Cool Features

They both contain ceramides and Vitamin E

Suited For

They're both likely to be good for anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, oily skin, reducing pores and scar healing

Free From

They both do not contain any harsh alcohols

What's Inside

They both contain fragrances and silicones

We independently verify ingredients, and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Spot a product that needs an update? Let us know.

Ingredient Info

Click any item below to learn more and see relevant ingredients

About this product

About this product

At a glance

Click on any of the items below to learn more

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

found in both products
Ultra Facial Cream
Cellular Melting Moisturising Cream

Water

Skin Conditioning

Cyclomethicone

Emollient
0 / 0 Silicon Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Emollient
2-3 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Steareth-2

Emulsifying
2 / 2

Boron Nitride

Absorbent

Xylitol

Humectant

Cyclopentasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Steareth-21

Cleansing

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol Icon

Cyclohexasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phenyl Trimethicone

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

Sodium Citrate

Buffering

Sodium Hydroxide

Buffering

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Lactic Acid

Buffering
AHA IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Serine

Masking

Sodium Lactate

Buffering

Sorbitol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Tea-Lactate

Humectant

Urea

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Sodium Chloride

Masking
Can worsen Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Soluble Collagen

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Propylene Glycol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glucose

Humectant

Mannitol

Humectant

Disodium Phosphate

Buffering

Potassium Chloride

May worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin Icon

Sodium Bicarbonate

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Calcium Chloride

Astringent

Ceramide 3

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Magnesium Chloride

Magnesium Sulfate

Sulfate Icon

Sodium Benzoate

Masking
Preservative Icon

PEG-8

Humectant

Carnosine

Skin Conditioning

Potassium Phosphate

Buffering

Allantoin

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Algae Extract

Emollient
May worsen Oily Skin Icon

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Skin Conditioning

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Creatine

Skin Conditioning

CI 17200

Cosmetic Colorant
1 / 2

Artemia Extract

Skin Conditioning

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning

Superoxide Dismutase

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Tromethamine

Buffering

Cetrimonium Bromide

Antimicrobial
Preservative Icon

Methylparaben

Preservative
0 / 0 Preservative IconParaben IconNon-Reef-Safe IconMay worsen Eczema Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Chlorphenesin

Antimicrobial
Preservative Icon

Parfum

Masking
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Masking
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Learn more about Cyclohexasiloxane
Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.

It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.

Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol. The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Cetyl Alcohol
Antimicrobial, Preservative

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Learn more about Chlorphenesin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken and improve the texture of products. Due to its properties, it can prevent water and oil ingredients from separating.

Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create a gel consistency.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Buffering

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Learn more about Sodium Hydroxide
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol
BHT
Antioxidant, Masking

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Learn more about BHT
Buffering, Masking

Citric Acid is an AHA derived from citrus fruits (think oranges, lemons, and limes!).

As an AHA, Citric Acid removes the top layer of skin cells from the newer layer of skin underneath. This helps skin to remove dark spots and even out skin tone.

If you spot Citric Acid near the end of an ingredient list, it's likely there as a pH adjuster rather than an active ingredient.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Learn more about Citric Acid

When to use

290 Routines
49% use in am
50% use in pm
94% use every day
When to use See routines that use it ->
5 Routines
60% use in am
40% use in pm
100% use every day

Reviews

Here's what our community thinks

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream 35 ingredients

2.0 /5
from 4 ratings
Expensive (4) Broke Me Out (2) Oily (2)
shadowkat's avatar

Shadow Kat

8 months ago
Review

It generate me strong acne just with 2 nights of using it.

#expensive
#broke me out
#irritating
#doesn't work
Shayan's avatar

Shayan

6 months ago
Review

Horrible. Destroyed my skin with just 2 uses. Pustule acne everywhere!!

#expensive
#broke me out
#heavy

Institut Esthederm Cellular Melting Moisturising Cream 68 ingredients

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