What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingCitrus Limon Juice
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPolyglycerin-3
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventSodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlutathione
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
SurfactantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine
Skin ConditioningRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantArbutin
AntioxidantHesperidin
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citrus Limon Juice, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arginine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, Glutathione, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Ascorbic Acid, Biotin, Cyanocobalamin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Riboflavin, Arbutin, Hesperidin, Retinal
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantCalcium Titanate
Skin ProtectingNiacinamide
SmoothingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolyisobutene
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGlutathione
Parfum
MaskingHexyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantThioctic Acid
AntioxidantCalcium Gluconate
HumectantCalcium Carbonate
AbrasiveCalcium Acetate
MaskingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantHippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSucrose Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Ethyl Glucoside
HumectantCocamide Methyl Mea
SurfactantIsostearic Acid
CleansingIsohexadecane
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingThiamine Hcl
MaskingRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Calcium Titanate, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Glycolipids, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glutathione, Parfum, Hexyl Alcohol, Potassium Phosphate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Thioctic Acid, Calcium Gluconate, Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Acetate, Alpha-Arbutin, Bisabolol, Beta-Sitosterol, Tocopherol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Ethyl Glucoside, Cocamide Methyl Mea, Isostearic Acid, Isohexadecane, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cyanocobalamin, Beta-Carotene, Linoleic Acid, Thiamine Hcl, Riboflavin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRiboflavin is Vitamin B2. Our bodies use riboflavin in the creation of skin, digestive tract lining, and blood cells.
Riboflavin is naturally found in Royal Jelly.
Foods rich in riboflavin include eggs, milk, organ meat, cheese, and yogurt.
Learn more about other types of Vitamin B:
Learn more about RiboflavinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water