What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Glycine Soja Oil
Emollient
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentSodium Lactate
Buffering
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCitric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Preservative
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingOrmenis Multicaulis Oil
Masking
Sodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Carum Petroselinum Seed Oil
Masking
Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Citrate
BufferingDehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Linalool
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Geraniol
Perfuming
Water, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopherol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycine Soja Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Cellulose Gum, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Carum Petroselinum Seed Oil, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Sodium Citrate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningPPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
EmollientSqualane
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Dimethicone
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Betaine
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Trehalose
Humectant
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Sorbitol
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Xylitol
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSteareth-20
CleansingAsparagopsis Armata Extract
Skin ProtectingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Emollient
Disodium EDTA
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucose
Humectant
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
Buffering
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningPantolactone
Humectant
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Chrysin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Water, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Betaine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polysorbate 60, Trehalose, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitol, Panthenol, Xylitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Xanthan Gum, Steareth-20, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Disodium EDTA, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Glucose, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Pantolactone, Potassium Sorbate, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
