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The History of Whoo Bichup Treatment Essence

The History of Whoo Bichup Treatment Essence

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Overview

What it is

Essence with 109 ingredients that contains exfoliants, niacinamide, peptides, Vitamin C and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing and dark spots

Free From

It doesn't contain any oils, parabens, silicones or sulfates

Fun facts

The History of Whoo is from South Korea. This product is used in 4 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

62
23
24

Water

Skin Conditioning

2,3-Butanediol

Humectant

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Isopentyldiol

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Hydroxyproline

Skin Conditioning

Mannitol

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Batyl Alcohol

Emollient

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Empetrum Nigrum Fruit Juice

Skin Conditioning

Shellac

Emollient

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dextrin

Absorbent

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Emulsion Stabilising
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Lecithin

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Humectant

Betaine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Trehalose

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Troxerutin

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Arginine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Bleaching
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cordyceps Militaris Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Skin Conditioning

Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glutamic Acid

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Buffering

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Masking
May worsen Eczema Icon

Sodium Glutamate

Masking

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Astringent
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Antioxidant
2 / 0 Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract

Antimicrobial

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Masking
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sodium Dna

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging Icon

Potassium Aspartate

Skin Conditioning

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Asparagine

Masking

Biotin/Folic Acid/Cyanocobalamin/Niacinamide/Pantothenic Acid/Pyridoxine/Riboflavin/Thiamine/Yeast Polypeptides

Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide IconPeptide Icon

Glutamine

Skin Conditioning

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Proline

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Tryptophan

Masking

Alanine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Quercetin

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Phytosterols

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Threonine

Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glycoproteins

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lysine

Skin Conditioning

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cleansing

Sorbitan Oleate

Emulsifying
3 / 0 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Leucine

Skin Conditioning

Phenylalanine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Tyrosine

Masking

Valine

Masking

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Histidine

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Isoleucine

Skin Conditioning

Oligopeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Oligopeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Yeast Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract

Astringent

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Emollient
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Masking
Fragrance Icon

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Tromethamine

Buffering

Trisodium EDTA

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

CI 77492

Cosmetic Colorant

Chromium Hydroxide Green

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Water, 2,3-Butanediol, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isopentyldiol, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Hydroxyproline, Mannitol, Batyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Empetrum Nigrum Fruit Juice, Shellac, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Dipropylene Glycol, Lecithin, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Betaine, Trehalose, Troxerutin, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Arginine, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Cordyceps Militaris Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Glutamic Acid, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Sodium Glutamate, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Tocopherol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Sodium Dna, Potassium Aspartate, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Asparagine, Biotin/Folic Acid/Cyanocobalamin/Niacinamide/Pantothenic Acid/Pyridoxine/Riboflavin/Thiamine/Yeast Polypeptides, Glutamine, Potassium Sorbate, Proline, Tryptophan, Alanine, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Glycine, Quercetin, Phytosterols, Threonine, Glycoproteins, Cholesterol, Lysine, Serine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Oleate, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Leucine, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Valine, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Histidine, Isoleucine, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Yeast Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Tromethamine, Trisodium EDTA, CI 77891, Silica, CI 77492, Chromium Hydroxide Green, Parfum, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Benzyl Benzoate

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

2,3-Butanediol is a naturally occurring humectant and solvent. It's created from fermentation and can be found in foods like cocoa butter and sweet corn.

This ingredient attracts and holds onto moisture to boost hydration in skin. According to a manufacturer, this ingredient improves the spreadability of ingredients like vitamin C.

Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Learn more about Alcohol Denat.
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Humectant, Solvent

Isopentyldiol is a synthetic solvent, humectant, and emollient.

Humectants have the ability to attract and hold water while emollients create a thin film to prevent water from evaporating. This combination keeps your skin and hair soft and hydrated. Plus, isopentyldiol does not leave a sticky feeling behind.

As a surfactant, isopentyldiol is a hydrotrope. Hydrotropes help surfactants (cleansing agents) dissolve into water.

According to the manufacturer, using this ingredient with sorbitol boosts skin hydration and helps close cuticles of damaged hair.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Learn more about Isopentyldiol
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.

The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.

This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.

Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.

Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.

Learn more about Pentylene Glycol
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.

Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Learn more about Carbomer
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydroxyproline yet.

Humectant, Masking, Moisturising

Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.

When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.

Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.

Learn more about Mannitol
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Batyl Alcohol yet.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Empetrum Nigrum Fruit Juice yet.

Emollient

We don't have a description for Shellac yet.

We don't have a description for Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Absorbent

Dextrin is used to thicken a product and helps bind ingredients together. It is created from starch and glycogen.

As an emulsifier, dextrin prevents ingredients from separating. This helps elongate a product's shelf life.

Studies show coating UV filters with dextrin prevents these ingredients from being absorbed. This helps UV ingredients last longer on the skin.

Learn more about Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.

Cacao seed extract contains antioxidants known as polyphenols.

Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide are the sugars from the snow mushroom.

Snow mushroom is rich in polysaccharides, giving it moisturizing benefits. As a humectant, snow mushroom helps draw moisture from the air to the skin. Polysaccharides are able to mimic our skin's natural carbohydrates to help the skin retain water.

Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.

Learn more about Lecithin

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine (aka DLGL) is an amino-acid based surfactant. Because it has two fatty tails and two water-loving ends, it's really great at mixing oils and water into stable textures.

It is also a humectant; like hyaluronic acid, it can draw moisture to your skin.

DLGL has been studied as a skin delivery helper. In lab skin models, it increased accumulation/penetration of hydrophilic actives (like vitamin C).

An Australian NICNAS report states DLGL to be non-irritating to skin at less than 10% and non-irritating to eyes at less than 1%. There's no evidence of skin sensitization in animal tests, but be sure to patch test if you are sensitive to surfactants.

Learn more about Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Learn more about Betaine
Humectant, Moisturising

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Learn more about Trehalose
Skin Conditioning

Troxerutin can help to reduce redness.

We don't have a description for Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Arginine

This ingredient comes from the Asian mountain yam and has skin conditioning properties. Clinical studies have confirmed this ingredient to work as an effective moisturizer.

The extract is rich in compounds like diosgenin, polysaccharides, and polyphenols, gallic acid, and vanillic acid. Research on these extracts has demonstrated antioxidant effects in-vitro and anti-inflammatory activity in animal models.

The bioactives in the root extract have also been shown in lab tests to have anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties.

A big 2022 review looked at the whole Dioscorea family and found these plants consistently showed antioxidant activity across the board.

This ingredient is gentle and well-tolerated by all skin types.

Learn more about Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Bleaching, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

We don't have a description for Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract yet.

This plant derived ingredient has skin conditioning and antioxidant properties.

You may see his ingredient in hair and scalp products because some research suggests it may support hair growth. However, strong human clinical evidence is limited.

Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Angelica Gigas Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cordyceps Militaris Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Emollient, Humectant

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract comes from a fungus that lives on caterpillars and insect larvae. It can also be made synthetically.

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract is an antioxidant and may help with reducing the signs of aging.

This fungus is mainly found in the mountainous regions of the Himalayas. It has been used in traditional Tibetan, Nepalese, and Chinese medicine to help with fatigue.

Learn more about Cordyceps Sinensis Extract

This ingredient is also called NAD+.

It is a coenzyme naturally found in every living cell where it plays a role in energy metabolism, DNA repair, and the activation of enzymes that maintain cellular health. Niacinamide is one of its key precursors.

Our NAD+ levels naturally decline with age and several DNA repair mechanisms critical to skin health are directly dependent on NAD+ to function.

In-vitro studies on human fibroblasts have shown that exogenous NAD+ can protect agsinst UV-induced extrinsic and intrinsic aging.

Here's a big caveat: NAD+ is a large, polar moleculate that has difficult penetrating the skin's stratum corneum. It also degrades quickly when exposed to light, heat, or pH changes. That's why brands prefer to use smaller, more stable precursors like NMN or NR.

The optimal stability for NAD+ is a pH of 6-7.5 and it is typically used in concentration ranges from 0.5-2%.

If you're looking for the most well-studied topical route to support your skin's NAD+, niacinamide is your best bet.

Learn more about Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

We don't have a description for Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract yet.

Humectant

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Learn more about Glutamic Acid
Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes form the common thyme plant. It has skin conditioning and perfuming ingredients.

In-vitro studies show strong antioxidant activity due to the high phenolic content of thyme.

Studies also demonstrate it has antimicrobial activity against acne-related bacteria. A 2017 study found this extract exhibited anti-inflammatory effects.

However, this ingredient does have sensitization potential due to its terpene content. Terpenes are among the most common causes of contact dermatitis.

This is kind of a double-edged sword situation where the same compounds that give it antimicrobial power can also irritate reactive skin.

Learn more about Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract comes from the root of the peony plant and has a long history of being used in traditional herbal medicine. In cosmetics, it has skin conditioning properties.

This root is rich in paeoniflorin, polyphenols, and flavonoids. These compounds are known to help calm inflammatory signaling, reduce oxidative stress, and regular skin responses to irritation.

In lab and cell studies, this ingredient has been shoown to reduce pro-inflammatory mediators and protect skin cells from stress.

Some research even suggests mild involvement in pigment regulation pathways which is why you might see this ingredient in brightening products.

Learn more about Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

We don't have a description for Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid yet.

This ingredient comes from the cinnamon tree native to southern China.

Though cinnamon has a wonderful taste, it can cause skin irritation due to its rich coumarins, cinnamaldehyde, and styrene content.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as MSG.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Astringent, Humectant, Soothing

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Learn more about Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

We don't have a description for Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Masking

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.

It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.

As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.

Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.

Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:

Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.

It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.

Learn more about Ascorbyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning

Glycyrrhetinic acid is a compound found in licorice. It has skin conditioning, skin soothing, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties.

Not only is this a great ingredient for soothing inflammation, studies show this compound is effective at protecting skin against UV-B induced damage.

Fun fact: This ingredient is also used to mask the bitter taste of medicine.

Learn more about Glycyrrhetinic Acid

We don't have a description for Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

Sodium DNA is an emerging anti-aging ingredient.

It is created by taking deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and purifying it with sodium hydroxide.

The DNA is extracted from several different animal sources, including: calf thymus, the gonadic tissue of a male sturgeon, or herring / salmon sperm.

You have probably seen this ingredient in anti-aging skincare. But what is it?

DNA is composed of nucleotides, or chemical building blocks. Nucleotides include adenine (A), thymine (T), guanine (G), and cytosine (C). Talk about a flashback to biology! Nucleosides are formed from these nucleotides.

The science behind Sodium DNA is based on an ingredient called Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN.

PDRN are DNA fragments mainly extracted from the sperm cells of trout or salmon. Meaning, PDRN can be derived from Sodium DNA.

PDRN consists of chains of nucleotides and nucleosides mentioned above. They can range anywhere from 80 - 2000 pairs.

Studies show PDRN has the following properties:

Most of the research on PDRN has been done using injectable forms. That’s important, because PDRN is a large molecule and doesn’t absorb well through the skin. So if you’re applying it topically, the effects are likely to be much milder.

Still, topical Sodium DNA is emerging as a trendy anti-aging ingredient. It’s generally well-tolerated and offers good biocompatibility with human skin, making it a low-risk addition to most routines.

Further studies are needed to truly confirm this ingredients anti-aging ability (Remember, retinol has decades of research!).

Sodium DNA may be sourced from fish, animal tissue, or plants. Since this isn’t always disclosed, we recommend asking the brand directly if the ingredient’s origin is important to you.

Learn more about Sodium Dna
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Potassium Aspartate yet.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant

This ingredient comes from the needles of the pine tree native to Korea and Japan. It's rich in antioxidant compounds like protocatechuic acid and shikimic acid.

Research on human skin fibroblast cells found that the extract inhibited UVB-induced cytotoxicity and suppressed the enzymes that break down collagen and reduce skin elasticity. This extract also inhibited elastase activity which is relevant for maintaining skin firmness over time.

Studies also show that it has antifungal activity against Malassezia furfur. This is the yeast that causes conditions like dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and folliculitis (fungal acne). It also displays anti-inflammatory activity.

On top of all this, all tested fractions of the extract demonstrated significant tyrosinase inhibitory activity comparable to ascorbic acid. This suggests it can play a potential role in fading hyperpigmentation.

Learn more about Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract comes from the Japanese Knotweed plant native to Japan, Korea, and China.

This plant contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It contains high amounts of resveratrol, a potent antioxidant.

The root of the plant has been used in traditional folk medicine throughout Asia.

Learn more about Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Asparagine is one building block of all proteins in our body. It is an antioxidant and may help with anti-aging.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or molecules that may damage our skin cells.

This is a blend of several types of Vitamin B and yeast peptides. This blend helps make the Vitamin B more stable.

Read about Vitamin B here.

Skin Conditioning

Glutamine is an amino acid (a small building block your body uses to make proteins). It has skin conditioning properties and helps skin feel comfortable.

Think of glutamine as a quiet support player in your skincare. Your skin’s outer layer (stratum corneum) needs two things to stay healthy: a strong barrier and enough moisture.

Part of what helps hold water in the skin is something called Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). These include amino acids or the same building blocks that make up proteins in your body.

Since glutamine is an amino acid, it falls into the “barrier-friendly, skin-conditioning” category. That’s why you’ll usually find it in hydrating and soothing formulas.

There's some experimental evidence that glutamine can calm inflammation-related skin reactions when applied topically in a contact-dermatitis model. However, it's not the same as a proven eczema fix.

Learn more about Glutamine
Preservative

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Learn more about Potassium Sorbate
Skin Conditioning

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Learn more about Proline
Masking

We don't have a description for Tryptophan yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract yet.

Buffering, Skin Conditioning

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Quercetin is a polyphenol flavonoid that can be naturally found in plants like apples, onions, berries, and broccoli. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.

The anti-inflammatory research for this ingredient is pretty solid:

It also looks promising for anti-aging; it activates pathways tied to cellular "youthfulness" by helping the cells that produce collagen and elastin do their job better. It also switches on the "longevity" gene that keeps cells acting young.

As of right now, most of the anti-aging research has been done on animals or cells in petri dishes, but there's no harm in trying this ingredient in your routine.

Another cool perk of this ingredient?

It does a great job stabilizing the chemical UV filters avobenzone and octinoxate against sun degradation. One study found it outperformed both tocopherol and octocrylene as a photostabilizer.

The only downside (if you can even call it that) is that quercetin doesn't dissolve well in water and cannot penetrate skin easily on its own. This just means formulators pair it with delivery systems to actually get it into skin.

There is some recent buzz about this ingredient having brightening effects, but the research hasn't backed this up.

Learn more about Quercetin
Skin Conditioning

Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols (you can think of them as the plant world's version of cholesterol). In cosmetics, this ingredient is usually sourced from soybean, rice bran, shea, sunflower, and other seed oils.

The main actors in this group are β-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol (the CIR covers 27 phytosterols).

They work by fitting perfectly into your stratum corneum's lipid matrix since they're structurally similar to cholesterol. Here, they reinforce your skin's barrier.

One small in vivo human study showed topical soybean phytosterols sped up barrier recovery within three days on tape-stripped skin.

Broader research credits them with:

Formulation use typically sit under 5%.

Testing in soy-allergic subjects found no sensitization signals, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure or have existing allergies.

Learn more about Phytosterols

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Skin Conditioning

Glycoproteins are proteins with sugar chains attached to them. They're naturally found throughout your body, including your skin's extracellular matrix.

In your skin, glycoproteins work alongside collagen and other structural proteins to keep everything held together and functioning properly. Their sugar components make them great at binding water and keeping the skin hydrated. They also part of the extracellular matrix that plays a direct role in wound healing.

The glycoproteins found in skincare are most commonly derived from yeast, algae, or plant sources.

In-vitro studies have shown that yeast-derived glycoproteins can boost cellular oxygen content and increase energy production in skin cells.

In general, this is a well-tolerated humectant and skin conditioning ingredient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has found no signs of irritation, adverse effects, or abnormal reactions from this ingredient.

Learn more about Glycoproteins
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Skin Conditioning

Lysine is an essential amino acid (your body cannot make it on its own). It has skin conditioning properties and one of the key players in collagen synthesis.

When your body creates collagen, lysine is basically the glue that holds everything together. It helps collagen fibers lock into each other and stay strong, with vitamin C being its trusty sidekick. Without enough lysine, this glue gets flimsy and less firm, resulting in less bouncy skin.

In skincare, lysine is mostly there to help keep your skin moisturized. It carries water through your skin's layers so everything stays plump.

So will putting lysine on your face create bouncier skin?

It's hard to say; most of the exciting collagen research on lysine comes from oral supplements or lab studies on mice. Further research is needed to truly understand what role topical lysine plays in skincare and your skin.

However, there's no harm in adding lysine to your routine as a supportive and hydrating ingredient.

Learn more about Lysine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Learn more about Serine
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Oleate is created from compounds in oleic acid and sorbitol.

It is used to stabilize a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Emulsifiers help keep ingredients together, such as oils and water.

According to a manufacturer, the ingredient Sorbitan Monooleate shares an INCI name with this one.

Sorbitan Oleate may not be fungal acne safe. It can also worsen oily skin.

Learn more about Sorbitan Oleate

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract comes from a type of goji berry plant.

Goji berries contain polysaccharides, carotenoids and flavonoids. These give it antioxidant properties that protect your skin from free-radical molecules.

Polysaccharides help hydrate the top layer of skin due to its ability to mimic natural carbohydrates.

Learn more about Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

This ingredient comes from the "five-flavor" berry native to northeast Asia. It has skin conditioning properties and is rich in antioxidants.

In lab models, this ingredient displays antioxidant effects in keratinocytes (the main cells in the epidermis). Some studies also report tyrosinase inhibiting or skin brightening activity.

One study using reconstructed human epidermis found this ingredient to help counter pollution-like inflammatory signaling in skin exposed to urban dust.

Learn more about Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Leucine yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.

This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.

Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.

Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.

Learn more about Phenylalanine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tyrosine is one of the amino acids used to create protein. It plays a role in melanin production.

A study from 2012 found tyrosine to show promising results in restoring skin volume.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.

An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.

This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.

Learn more about Valine
Skin Protecting

This is the extract of the Reishi mushroom.

The Reishi mushroom has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

This is due to its content of terpenoids, polysaccharides, macronutrients, and phenolic acids.

Learn more about Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, commonly known as Argireline or Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, is a popular peptide in skincare. It’s often referred to as a “Botox-like” ingredient because it helps reduce muscle movement.

By relaxing these micro-movements, Argireline may help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. That said, it’s not as powerful as Botox, and research on its long-term effectiveness is still limited.

Beyond smoothing, Argireline may also support collagen production. Collagen is the protein that helps keep your skin firm, bouncy, and well-hydrated by strengthening the skin barrier.

So while Argireline isn’t a miracle fix, it can be a helpful addition to a routine focused on both prevention and skin health.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Skin Conditioning

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.

One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:

Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.

Learn more about Histidine
Skin Conditioning

Isoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.

Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.

Skin Conditioning

This synthetic peptide consists of glycine, histidine, and lysine. Peptides have skin conditioning properties.

This name refers to a group of Oligopeptide-1 derivatives, such as the famous Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

Skin Conditioning

Oligopeptide-2 is a synthetic peptide consisting of consisting of lysine, threonine, and serine.

Peptides have skin conditioning properties.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Yeast extract is a silky, clear liquid derived from yeast (usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae or Torula yeast).

This ingredient has plenty of skin benefits:

Bioferments of yeast and soy have been found to reduce hyperpigmentation at low levels.

Due to its fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Yeast Extract
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin

We don't have a description for Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract is from an herb called Huang Qi. The roots of this plant have traditionally used in traditional Chinese medicine.

This ingredient contains hydrating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds such as polysaccharides, saponins, and flavonoids. These compounds have also been studied for its effects on skin repair like fibroblast activity, growth-factor signaling, and wound closure models. However, human evidence is still limited.

Recent clinical work on a proprietary Astragalus + Centella saponin system showed improvement in skin aging and quality.

Overall, this ingredient is a great supportive ingredient with low irritation risk.

Learn more about Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Masking, Perfuming

This ingredient comes from the peel of the satsuma mandarin fruit native to Japan.

Unlike other citrus ingredients, this one is not known to cause photosensitivity. This is because the citrus ingredients that cause sensitivity are high in furanocoumarins. When exposed to UV, furocoumarins bind to and destabilize your DNA, speeding up the rate of sunburn.

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is unique in that the peel contains very low levels of furanocoumarins and tested products with this ingredient confirmed no detectable furanocoumarins.

The peel is rich in antioxidants and lab studies show it can help brighten skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

One study on the fermented version of this ingredient found it could help reduce UVA-induced collagen breakdown. Though it is worth noting that while results are promising, robust human clinical trials are still needed.

This ingredient naturally contains limonene and other aromatic compounds that make it a perfuming ingredient.

The official COSING database only lists this ingredient as having "Perfuming" properties at this time. The brightening, antioxidant, and skin conditioning benefits that brands market come from the research literature and from how formulators choose to use the ingredient.

Learn more about Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is created from fermenting Saccharomyces, a yeast also known as baker's yeast or brewer's yeast.

As a humectant, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate helps draw moisture from the air to your skin to keep your skin hydrated. The humectant properties comes from its beta-glucan content.

Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

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Trisodium EDTA is one of those quietly essential helper ingredients that most people have never heard of. You'll most likely spot it near the end of ingredient lists in almost every category of skincare.

So what does it actually do?

Its main job is chelation; this is a fancy word to say it grabs onto metal ions and neutralizes them. This is because even purified water in cosmetics contains trace amounts of metals that can cause big problems in a formula.

These trace metals can break down actives faster, cause discoloration, promote rancidity in oils, and make preservatives less effective. Trisodium EDTA binds to these metals and takes them out of the equation so your products can stay stable and effective for longer.

There's also an added bonus: by neutralizing the metals ions that bacteria need to thrive, this ingredient also acts as a preservative booster.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, and is barely absorbed through the skin.

Learn more about Trisodium EDTA
Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Learn more about CI 77891
Abrasive, Absorbent

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Learn more about Silica
Cosmetic Colorant

CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Learn more about CI 77492

We don't have a description for Chromium Hydroxide Green yet.

Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum
Perfuming, Tonic

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

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Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Solvent

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

Learn more about Benzyl Benzoate

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· Updated November 4, 2025 Added by douglasvargas1