Shu Uemura Unlimited Block : Booster Hydrating Primer SPF 50+ PA+++ Versus The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
UV Absorber
Isononyl Isononanoate
EmollientOctocrylene
UV Absorber
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV Absorber
Ethylhexyl Triazone
UV Absorber
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin Conditioning
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV Filter
Propanediol
Solvent
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningSilica
Abrasive
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Diisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Homosalate
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Glycerin
Humectant
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Caramel
Cosmetic ColorantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingTin Oxide
Abrasive
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlumina
Abrasive
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Emollient
Sorbitol
Humectant
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingSorbic Acid
Preservative
Citric Acid
Buffering
Water, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, CI 77891, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Propanediol, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Homosalate, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caramel, Carbomer, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tin Oxide, Propylene Glycol, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Sorbitol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, CI 17200, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningOctocrylene
UV Absorber
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
UV Absorber
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV Absorber
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
UV Absorber
Triheptanoin
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Tromethamine
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientPropanediol
Solvent
C9-12 Alkane
SolventDilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Hectorite
AbsorbentLauroyl Lysine
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Dimethiconol
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingOryza Sativa Hull Extract
MoisturisingCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Polyglutamic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Saccharomyces Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Water, Octocrylene, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Triheptanoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Squalane, Hectorite, Lauroyl Lysine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oryza Sativa Hull Extract, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is a chemical sunscreen filter that provides protection in the UV-A range.
Avobenzone is globally approved and is the most commonly used UV-A filter in the world.
Studies have found that avobenzone becomes ineffective when exposed to UV light (it is not photostable; meaning that it breaks down in sunlight). Because of this, formulations that include avobenzone will usually contain stabilizers such as octocrylene.
However, some modern formulations (looking at you, EU!) are able to stabilize avobenzone by coating the molecules.
Avobenzone does not protect against the UV-B range, so it's important to check that the sunscreen you're using contains other UV filters that do!
The highest concentration of avobenzone permitted is 3% in the US, and 5% in the EU.
Learn more about Butyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateEthylhexyl Salicylate is an organic compound used to block UV rays. It primarily absorbs UVB rays but offers a small amount of UVA protection as well.
Commonly found in sunscreens, Ethylhexyl Salicylate is created from salicylic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. You might know salicylic acid as the effective acne fighter ingredient and BHA.
The ethylhexanol in this ingredient is a fatty alcohol and helps hydrate your skin, similar to oils. It is an emollient, which means it traps moisture into the skin.
According to manufacturers, Ethylhexyl Salicylate absorbs UV wavelength of 295-315 nm, with a peak absorption at 307-310 nm. UVA rays are linked to long term skin damage, such as hyperpigmentation. UVB rays emit more energy and are capable of damaging our DNA. UVB rays cause sunburn.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl SalicylateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinOctocrylene protects skin from sun damage. It absorbs UV-B with peak absorption of 304 nm. It is a common sunscreen ingredient and often paired with avobenzone, a UVA filter. This is because octocrylene stabilizes other sunscreen ingredients by protecting them from degradation when exposed to sunlight. Octocrylene is a photostable ingredient and loses about 10% of SPF in 95 minutes.
Octocrylene also acts as an emollient, meaning it helps skin retain moisture and softens skin. It is oil-soluble and hydrophobic, enhancing water-resistant properties in a product.
Those who are using ketoprofen, a topical anti-inflammatory drug, may experience an allergic reaction when using octocrylene. It is best to speak with a healthcare professional about using sunscreens with octocrylene.
The EU allows a maximum of these concentrations:
Learn more about OctocrylenePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
