What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingVinyldimethicone
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Stearyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDextrin
AbsorbentGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCholesterol
EmollientPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningWater, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, Vinyldimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Palmitic Acid, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Synthetic Beeswax, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Dextrin, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Phosphatidylcholine, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Retinal, Sodium Lactate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantResveratrol
AntioxidantTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningKluyveromyces Extract
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantSqualane
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Eos
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientBenzoic Acid
MaskingBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolymethyl Methacrylate
Ceteareth-33
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopheryl Glucoside
EmollientWater, Glycerin, Resveratrol, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Kluyveromyces Extract, Ceteareth-20, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Squalane, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Eos, Tocopherol, Retinal, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Benzoic Acid, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ceteareth-33, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Glucoside
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCopper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Retinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water