What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingLauramide DEA
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMethylpropanediol
SolventPEG-100 Stearate
PEG-90m
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingKaolin
AbrasiveArachidic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Polyquaternium-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningOleic Acid
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCapric Acid
Cleansing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPoloxamer 235
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantEpigallocatechin Gallate
AntioxidantAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingCentaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
AstringentBorago Officinalis Extract
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantWater, Palmitic Acid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauramide DEA, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylpropanediol, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-90m, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Kaolin, Arachidic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-7, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Oleic Acid, Trehalose, Ascorbic Acid, Capric Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Poloxamer 235, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Retinol, Sodium Ascorbate, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, BHT, BHA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Behenic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil
AntioxidantLuffa Cylindrica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningThymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract
MaskingBuddleja Davidii Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Archangelica Root Water
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Digitata Powder
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids
CleansingPropylene Glycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMenthone Glycerin Acetal
RefreshingDisodium EDTA
Ascorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientPEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPerfluorodecalin
Skin ConditioningGlycosphingolipids
EmollientEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberButylene Glycol
HumectantPotassium Phosphate
BufferingAlcohol
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyaminopropyl Biguanide
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
Preservative1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
MaskingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Behenic Acid, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Stearic Acid, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil, Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Laminaria Digitata Powder, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, Disodium EDTA, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Perfluorodecalin, Glycosphingolipids, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Potassium Sorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, BHT, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Eugenol, Parfum, CI 42090, CI 17200
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source.
Learn more about Lauric AcidMyristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.
Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.
One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water