Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream All Skin Types Versus Apivita Natural Cosmetics Beevine Elixir Wrinkle & Firmness Lift Cream
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Propolis Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
MaskingXylitylglucoside
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingXylitol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Alcohol
AntimicrobialSodium Lactate
BufferingGlucose
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingHarungana Madagascariensis Extract
Skin ConditioningMarrubium Vulgare Extract
Skin ConditioningCoco-Glucoside
CleansingBalanites Roxburghii Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingFurcellaria Lumbricalis Extract
Skin ConditioningPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingPyrus Sorbus Bud Extract
AstringentUlex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningLapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMaris Sal
Skin ConditioningCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Citrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xylitol, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Glucose, Citric Acid, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Maris Sal, CI 14700, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningTriolein
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentHippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract
MaskingVitis Vinifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAminobutyric Acid
Sorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCitronellyl Methylcrotonate
MaskingPalmitic Acid
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingLecithin
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Phytate
Parfum
MaskingWater, Propanediol, Squalane, Glycerin, Triheptanoin, Triolein, Cetearyl Glucoside, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Propolis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract, Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract, Vegetable Oil, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cetyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Sorbitan Palmitate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Aminobutyric Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Palmitic Acid, Maltodextrin, Allantoin, Sodium Benzoate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum