What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Squalane
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningCrocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Pisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentElaeis Guineensis Oil
Emollient
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Extract
Skin ConditioningAstaxanthin
Skin Conditioning
Honey
Humectant
Tocotrienols
Skin Conditioning
Phospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Totarol
Antioxidant
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Sphingolipids
Emollient
Glucosamine Hcl
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Acacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Citric Acid
Buffering
Phenethyl Alcohol
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Polysorbate 60, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Sorbitan Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Pisum Sativum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract, Astaxanthin, Honey, Tocotrienols, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Totarol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sphingolipids, Glucosamine Hcl, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Isononanoate
Emollient
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
Masking
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Sodium Citrate
BufferingAnhydroxylitol
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Xylitol
Humectant
Disodium EDTA
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Sodium Lactate
Buffering
Glucose
Humectant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Harungana Madagascariensis Extract
Skin ConditioningMarrubium Vulgare Extract
Skin ConditioningCoco-Glucoside
Cleansing
Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Phenethyl Alcohol
MaskingFurcellaria Lumbricalis Extract
Skin ConditioningPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingPyrus Sorbus Bud Extract
AstringentUlex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMaris Sal
Skin ConditioningCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Water, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Citrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xylitol, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Glucose, Citric Acid, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Maris Sal, CI 14700, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenethyl Alcohol is a colorless and aromatic alohol. It is naturally occuring in essential oils.
The scent of this ingredient is floral and often compared to rose.
Like other alcohols, this ingredient helps prevent the growth of bacteria. However, its main purpose is to impact a fragrance.
Learn more about Phenethyl AlcoholWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
