Vichy Mineral 89 Riche Versus Apivita Natural Cosmetics Beevine Elixir Wrinkle & Firmness Lift Cream
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialSqualane
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentMannose
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningMineral Salts
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium PCA
HumectantVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSalicylic Acid
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dicaprylyl Ether, Stearyl Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Squalane, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Zea Mays Starch, Mannose, Adenosine, Mineral Salts, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium PCA, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Tocopherol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Salicylic Acid, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningTriolein
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentHippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract
MaskingVitis Vinifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAminobutyric Acid
Sorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCitronellyl Methylcrotonate
MaskingPalmitic Acid
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingLecithin
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Phytate
Parfum
MaskingWater, Propanediol, Squalane, Glycerin, Triheptanoin, Triolein, Cetearyl Glucoside, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Propolis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract, Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract, Vegetable Oil, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cetyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Sorbitan Palmitate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Aminobutyric Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Palmitic Acid, Maltodextrin, Allantoin, Sodium Benzoate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itâs technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term âoil-freeâ isnât regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum