What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSorbitol
HumectantPassiflora Incarnata Seed Oil
Skin ProtectingMethyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingMagnesium Sulfate
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantLinoleic Acid
CleansingOleic Acid
EmollientSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantGlycolic Acid
BufferingLactobionic Acid
BufferingGlutathione
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialLinolenic Acid
CleansingDextran
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-37
Skin ConditioningN-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Skin ConditioningCera Alba
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingAcacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmollientPolyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientPropylene Carbonate
SolventPolyglyceryl-3 Oleate
EmulsifyingHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingWater, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Sorbitol, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycolic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Cera Alba, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Butylene Glycol, Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventHippophae Rhamnoides Extract
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingStearic Acid
CleansingLupinus Albus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningNicotinoyl Dipeptide-22
Skin ConditioningPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingC14-28 Alkyl Acid
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Olivoyl Glutamate
CleansingTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientArginine
MaskingFucose
Skin ConditioningAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingEvodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSpilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCarnitine
CleansingEllagic Acid
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientKigelia Africana Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningQuillaja Saponaria Bark Extract
CleansingPistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingSh-Polypeptide-64
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlutathione
Carnosine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingGlutamine
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingThreonine
Tryptophan
MaskingValine
MaskingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantThiamine Hcl
MaskingInositol
HumectantCalcium Chloride
AstringentMagnesium Sulfate
Potassium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Pyruvate
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCyclodextrin
AbsorbentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Glycerin, Water, Propanediol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Stearic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Arginine, Fucose, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Carnitine, Ellagic Acid, Biotin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Sh-Polypeptide-64, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Carnosine, Glycine, Glutamine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Serine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Valine, Folic Acid, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Inositol, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Pyruvate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Cyclodextrin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneMagnesium Sulfate is a salt. More specifically, it is an epsom salt, or the bath salt used to help relieve muscle aches.
Despite having ‘sulfate’ in the name, it isn’t a surfactant or cleansing agent like sodium lauryl sulfate. Unlike those sulfates, magnesium sulfate doesn’t have the same cleansing or foaming properties (it's simply a type of salt).
In cosmetics, Magnesium Sulfate is used to thicken a product or help dilute other solids. It is a non-reactive and non-irritating ingredient.
One study shows magnesium deficiency may lead to inflammation of the skin. Applying magnesium topically may help reduce inflammation.
You can find this ingredient in sea water or mineral deposits.
Learn more about Magnesium SulfatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum