What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Glycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientPropanediol
SolventSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantAvena Sativa Bran Extract
AbrasiveGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Linoleate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Levulinic Acid
PerfumingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingGlycerin, Water, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Pentylene Glycol, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Ceramide NP, Bisabolol, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Phospholipids, Retinyl Linoleate, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Gluconolactone, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBoron Nitride
AbsorbentCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningCoconut Alkanes
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientBis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlucose
HumectantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingThioctic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLaureth-23
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Carbonate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Chloride
MaskingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Boron Nitride, Caffeine, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Coconut Alkanes, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Niacinamide, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glucose, Biotin, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Lecithin, Cetyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ubiquinone, Citric Acid, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Steareth-20, Thioctic Acid, Tocopherol, Chrysin, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Laureth-23, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water