What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingJojoba Esters
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl Oleate
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantHoney
HumectantParfum
MaskingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Cera
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyglycerin-3
HumectantPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Liquid Endosperm
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningSchinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
EmollientMoringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingCocos Nucifera Fruit Juice
EmollientWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Jojoba Esters, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phytosteryl Oleate, Saccharide Isomerate, Tocopherol, Honey, Parfum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglycerin-3, Phytosterols, Acacia Senegal Gum, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cocos Nucifera Liquid Endosperm, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantC15-19 Alkane
SolventTribehenin
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantOctyldodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSunflower Seed Oil/Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Esters
EmollientHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingUndecane
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf
MaskingTridecane
PerfumingSymphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPropanediol
SolventXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientOctyldodecyl Xyloside
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer
CleansingCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingCucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Tribehenin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sunflower Seed Oil/Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Esters, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Caffeine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Tridecane, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Allantoin, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Xyloside, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilJojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Learn more about Jojoba EstersPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum