Shu Uemura Unlimited Block : Booster Hydrating Primer SPF 50+ PA+++ Versus (Malin+Goetz) SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientOctocrylene
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterPropanediol
SolventIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHomosalate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingTin Oxide
AbrasiveCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantPropylene Glycol
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlumina
AbrasiveIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantMaris Aqua
HumectantT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingZea Mays Kernel Extract
CI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbic Acid
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientWater, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, CI 77891, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Propanediol, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Homosalate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tin Oxide, Caramel, Propylene Glycol, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Sorbitol, Maris Aqua, T-Butyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, CI 17200, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Titanium Dioxide 3.71%
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 2.71%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingCoconut Alkanes
EmollientAlumina
AbrasiveGlycogen
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Ursolic Acid
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingTitanium Dioxide 3.71%, Zinc Oxide 2.71%, Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, Coconut Alkanes, Alumina, Glycogen, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ursolic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alumina (aka aluminum oxide) is an inorganic mineral powder refined from bauxite that works as a quiet workhorse in a formula.
It shows up often as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking, bulking, and viscosity-controlling agent.
One of its most common jobs is acting as a pigment carrier and dispersant.
Alumina platelets are often blended with inorganic sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide (or with colorants) and then coated with a silicone such as Triethoxycaprylylsilane so the pigment spreads evenly and smoothly.
In makeup, it can also double as a light-diffusing powder or oil absorber to keep formulas from looking greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded alumina to be safe in present practices of use and concentration.
They note it's a stable, oxidized compound and scientific research has failed to establish links to health issues.
Concentrations vary depending on the product:
Learn more about AluminaCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum