Perricone MD Cold Plasma Plus+ The Intensive Hydrating Complex Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientBentonite
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantDimethicone
EmollientIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Soybean Oil
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Mea
BufferingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTyrosine
MaskingHydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPolysilicone-11
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativePetrolatum
EmollientHydrogenated Olive Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingHydrogenated Jojoba Oil
AbrasiveEchium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingGlycolic Acid
BufferingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycine Soja Lipids
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Phytosterols
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Bentonite, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Isoamyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dimethyl Mea, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tyrosine, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Glucoside, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Lipids, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Phytosterols, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningPadina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPorphyridium Cruentum Extract
Skin ConditioningAcacia Decurrens Flower Extract
MaskingRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyacrylate-13
Stearic Acid
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Polyacrylate
Polyisobutene
Parfum
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
MaskingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingCuminum Cyminum Seed Oil
MaskingCedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidDicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water