What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientHexyl Laurate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingDimethicone
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantBiotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isohexadecane, Hexyl Laurate, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polysorbate 60, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Parfum, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Biotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexyl Cinnamal
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientTrimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventMyristyl Nicotinate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantBis-Stearyl Dimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingStearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingAstrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingBisabolol
AntioxidantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningBacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
EmulsifyingPentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil/Behenic Acid/Aminopropanediol Amides/Esters
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantEvodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientSodium Isostearate
CleansingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingResveratrol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingMica
Cosmetic ColorantRutin
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Propanediol, Myristyl Nicotinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Saccharide Isomerate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-40 Stearate, Astrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil, Polysilicone-11, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-20, Bisabolol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil/Behenic Acid/Aminopropanediol Amides/Esters, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine, Isohexadecane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dipotassium Phosphate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Resveratrol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Lactic Acid, Mica, Rutin, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, CI 77891, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateIsohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Learn more about IsohexadecaneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum