What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetyl Ricinoleate
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantC12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingSodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate
Glycolic Acid
BufferingMyristoyl Pentapeptide-8
Skin ConditioningMyristoyl Pentapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-22
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingAleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingCitrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingPyrus Malus Pulp Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPEG-8
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Oleate
CleansingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingSilica
AbrasiveDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingBenzoic Acid
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 40800
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Sorbitol, Glycerin, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Glycolic Acid, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Oligopeptide-4, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Pulp Extract, Retinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-8, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Oleate, Glycine Soja Oil, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Silica, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, CI 40800, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientLecithin
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTribehenin
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingPEG-8
HumectantMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingChrysin
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Steareth-20
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Bakuchiol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide-2, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Chrysin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-20, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzoic Acid is an organic acid that shows up in cosmetics as a preservative. It helps keep a product from spoiling by holding back the growth of yeast, mold, and some bacteria.
This ingredient also functions as a fragrance ingredient that helps mask the unpleasant scent of other ingredients.
The way it works is worth understanding; benzoic acid works when the formula is acidic. It is able to sneak into a microbe's cell and mess up how it functions to stop it from growing in an acidic product.
However, the acid switches to an inactive form and stops working if a product isn't acidic enough (above ~5 pH). This is why you'll often see it in low pH products or teamed up with other preservatives to cover the gap.
Safety wise, it's one of the better studied preservatives out there.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%.
A large international review found this ingredient had no effects on the human body and had low irritation potential.
Just so you know, real world use is usually much lower than the 5% ceiling (usually 1% of less).
The EU caps it at 2.5% in rinse-off products, 1.7% in oral care, and 0.5% in leave-on products.
One thing worth mentioning (it's nothing to worry about): some people get a little stinging or flushing where they apply it. This isn't a true allergy; it's a temporary and harmless reaction. This is the same kind of mild tingle you might notice from sorbic acid.
Learn more about Benzoic AcidC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.
This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.
It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.
Learn more about PEG-8Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water