Holika Holika Good Cera Super Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Nutritic Intense Riche Face Cream For Very Dry Skin
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Ceramide AP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientEthylhexyl Isononanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientStearyl Behenate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
EmulsifyingHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientGlycosphingolipids
EmollientCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningMeadowfoam Estolide
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Aleuritic Acid
Skin ConditioningYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer
HumectantAlteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingCymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingSantalum Album Oil
MaskingChamomilla Recutita Flower Oil
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Stearyl Behenate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Glycosphingolipids, Ceramide AP, Meadowfoam Estolide, Glycine Soja Sterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceramide EOP, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Aleuritic Acid, Yeast Extract, Glycoproteins, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Propylene Glycol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Myristate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentMyristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Myristyl Myristate, Niacinamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Myristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water