Fraijour Heartleaf Blemish pH Balanced Cleansing Foam Versus Meditherapy A Clearing Active BHA Gel Cleanser
This salicylic acid foaming cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Cleansing
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Surfactant
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
CleansingSodium Chloride
MaskingCitric Acid
Buffering
Glyceryl Oleate
Emollient
C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingStearic Acid
Cleansing
Glycol Distearate
Emollient
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Disodium EDTA
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentMedicago Sativa Extract
TonicBrassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTriticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Extract
Skin ConditioningRaphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Humectant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract
Skin Protecting
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningOpuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Dextrin
AbsorbentAsiaticoside
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Oleate, C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Stearic Acid, Glycol Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Salicylic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Brassica Campestris Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Madecassoside, Dextrin, Asiaticoside
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
Surfactant
Coco-Betaine
Cleansing
Acrylates Copolymer
Propanediol
Solvent
Tromethamine
BufferingPotassium Benzoate
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid 0.4%
Masking
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Chloride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingCoco-Glucoside
Cleansing
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Sorbitol
Humectant
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Masking
Decyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cleansing
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Glycolic Acid
Buffering
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Skin Conditioning
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Coco-Betaine, Acrylates Copolymer, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Potassium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic Acid 0.4%, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Coco-Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycolic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Madecassoside
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHouttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.
The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.
Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.
Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.
Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.
The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.
Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata ExtractMadecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosideMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
