Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta pH Balance Replenishing Cream Versus Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantC13-16 Isoalkane
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHeptyl Undecylenate
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientStearyl Dimethicone
EmollientSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantMagnesium PCA
HumectantManganese PCA
HumectantPhytic Acid
Sodium PCA
HumectantLinoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningCopper PCA
HumectantInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCaulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract
AntioxidantCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantZinc PCA
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingIsododecane
EmollientPotassium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
MaskingCalcium Chloride
AstringentTocopherol
AntioxidantCeteareth-20
CleansingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Bicarbonate
AbrasiveSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Butylene Glycol, C13-16 Isoalkane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Heptyl Undecylenate, Glyceryl Behenate, Stearyl Dimethicone, Saccharide Isomerate, Magnesium PCA, Manganese PCA, Phytic Acid, Sodium PCA, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Copper PCA, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bisabolol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Phytosterols, Adenosine, Salicylic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Zinc PCA, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Isohexadecane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isododecane, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Tocopherol, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan Oleate, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientPseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPlantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
EmollientPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientSchinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
EmollientSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantXimenia Americana Seed Oil
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Carbonate
BufferingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Ximenia Americana Seed Oil, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Carbonate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water