What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitol
HumectantErythritol
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Retinoate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Linoleate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Acetate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningCeramide Eos
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningResveratrol
AntioxidantBifida Ferment Extract
HumectantCamellia Reticulata Seed Oil
EmollientHexapeptide-8
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantWater, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Erythritol, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Retinoate, Retinyl Linoleate, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Propionate, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polysorbate 80, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Resveratrol, Bifida Ferment Extract, Camellia Reticulata Seed Oil, Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oligopeptide-1, Carnosine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, BHT
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-26
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantNymphaea Caerulea Flower Water
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingPaeonia Lactiflora Extract
AstringentPropanediol
SolventStephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSoluble Collagen
HumectantErgothioneine
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantUbiquinone
AntioxidantArtemisia Argyi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc Sulfate
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantEDTA
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveTetrasodium Pyrophosphate
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propylene Glycol, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Phospholipids, Methylpropanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Retinol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Water, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Propanediol, Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract, Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Soluble Collagen, Ergothioneine, Retinyl Palmitate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Caramel, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Retinal, Mannitol, Ascorbic Acid, Ubiquinone, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Zinc Sulfate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Ceramide NP, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, EDTA, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent that helps cosmetics stay fresh, stable, and consistent over time.
Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product. It also helps prevent the growth of unwanted microbes in products that contain water.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.
Learn more about Caprylhydroxamic AcidThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis synthetic peptide consists of glycine, histidine, and lysine. Peptides have skin conditioning properties.
This name refers to a group of Oligopeptide-1 derivatives, such as the famous Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract comes Peony plant. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Emerging studies also show peony root may help reduce hyperpigmentation.
Ancient Chinese medicine has used peony root to treat dark spots, but studies are looking into this claim more.
Learn more about Paeonia Suffruticosa Root ExtractPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water