This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Isododecane
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantCoconut Alkanes
Emollient
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Humectant
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Silica
Abrasive
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingStevioside
MaskingPolysilicone-11
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXylitol
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Parfum
Masking
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin Conditioning
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract
MaskingLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Astringent
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Astringent
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Aroma
Sodium Chloride
MaskingCitral
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Water, Squalane, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isododecane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Coconut Alkanes, CI 77891, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Methicone, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stevioside, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Parfum, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, CI 77491, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ascorbic Acid, Aroma, Sodium Chloride, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCurcuma Longa Root Extract
Antioxidant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Masking
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Humectant
Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Cucurbita Maxima Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Glucose
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantSodium Phytate
Fructose
Humectant
Sucrose
Humectant
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisostearyl Malate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Panthenol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Cucurbita Maxima Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Glucose, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Sodium Phytate, Fructose, Sucrose
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
