What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantRose Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialEcklonia Cava Extract
Skin ConditioningHizikia Fusiforme Extract
Skin ConditioningCodium Tomentosum Extract
Skin ProtectingGelidium Cartilagineum Extract
Skin ProtectingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caffeine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Rose Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Ecklonia Cava Extract, Hizikia Fusiforme Extract, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, CI 77491
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientSoluble Collagen
HumectantMannose
HumectantGlucose
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isododecane, Triethylhexanoin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Soluble Collagen, Mannose, Glucose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Beta-Glucan, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Synthetic Beeswax, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Sorbitan Stearate, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water