Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule
This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Ceramide NP to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantIsopentyldiol
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Polydecene
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Guaiazulene
Antimicrobial
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Tripeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Hexapeptide-11
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Hexapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Nonapeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Camellia Japonica Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Calendula Officinalis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Skin Conditioning
Propolis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Masking
Zinc Oxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Asiaticoside
Antioxidant
Madecassic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Asiatic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Cleansing
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Humectant
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract
TonicCalamine
AbsorbentMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Octyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Agar
MaskingMannitol
Humectant
Zea Mays Starch
Absorbent
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentDisodium EDTA
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Lecithin
Emollient
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Hydrogen Dimethicone
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Propolis Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Zinc Oxide, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Allantoin, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea Mays Starch, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Disodium EDTA, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogen Dimethicone
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Glycerin
Humectant
Tranexamic Acid
Astringent
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Betaine
Humectant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Zea Mays Starch
Absorbent
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentMannitol
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingMadecassoside
Antioxidant
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Xylitol
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Zea Mays Starch, Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Mannitol, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Madecassoside, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Glucose, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinMadecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosideMannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Learn more about MannitolMicrocrystalline Cellulose is another name for refined wood pulp. It is used as an emulsifier and mattifying ingredient. As an emulsifier, it helps keep ingredients together.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZea Mays Starch is starch made from corn. You might know this as cornstarch . It is used to thicken a product. It can replace talc as an absorbent.
The pH of cornstarch is 5.92.
Cornstarch is a common food ingredient used to thicken soups or to make corn syrup.
Learn more about Zea Mays Starch
